casually does it
Formerly Coquo, the new Deuce KL in Publika take an elevated approach to modern European casual dining. Under new head chef Ng Hun Yan, whose pedigree comes from Singapore’s renowned Tippling Club, Deuce KL aims to offer comfort – in food and in space. Vestiges of Coquo’s Spanish-skewed menu (created under former head chef Toni Valero) remain, with Chef Ng also stamping his mark with some subtle inclusions of local flavours.
In a warm inviting space built around an open kitchen, flanked by a kinetic mural of Hollywood stars in a food fight, the dishes arrive quick to the table. The octopus with pickled beetroot and saffron aioli is a highlight, as is the duck breast with salted duck egg crumble. Pan-seared snapper a la Tippling Club is a sneaky re-creation of the Singaporean restaurant’s favourite, while the mushroom salad covering a poached egg is a sophisticated punch of umami. In the dessert section, between the requisite carrot cake and chocolate mousse is Chef Ng’s Asian contribution to a European-skewed menu – a faux avocado made of avocado and pandan ice cream, over a layer of creamy glutinous rice infused with coconut cream. Kerisik – toasted grated coconut – forms the “avocado’s” crust, a lovely and familiar way to end a culinary journey to Europe.