One enters Bibo, a restaurant in Hong Kong’s Sheung Wan district through an understated entrance by pressing a hidden button. This introduction begins what some might consider a walk on the wilder side of the island’s fine-dining scene. After all, Hong Kong is a city where Michelin-starred chefs and restaurants kiss cheek to cheek in terms of both their locations and styles of cuisines.

At Bibo, which triples up as a dining space, a bar and an art gallery, things are elevated several notches. Chef Mutaro Balde – who has worked with the likes of Alain Ducasse and Joel Robuchon – renders French cuisine with playful and arty twists. 

The classics are reinterpreted with gusto and flourish. There is the les gnocchis a la truffle – gnocchi served with Australian truffle, pea puree, sea lettuce and onions. Balde’s fresh take on lobster on the other hand, results in the le homard bleu, sliced turnip and Japanese radishes and Brittany blue lobster, drizzled with lobster jus.

For meaty mains, try the impeccable le boeuf from Myazaki. The dish combines Japanese beef with succulent wild mushrooms and bone marrow, the flavours of which are sealed into the tender meat. Beyond the food and mixologist Timothy Ching’s delicious cocktails (his negroni is sublime), there are the art works, spanning the modern art spectrum with creations by Banksy, Damien Hirst and Jeff Koons.

Bibo