Forward Thinking
Here’s a look at the watchmaking maisons who showcased at the renown watch trade show Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) this year from the 14th to the 17th January 2019. We’ve picked the showstoppers at the event and the next on our list is — the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar.
You can find the full series here.
One of this year’s most surprising and delightful developments came from Vacheron Constantin. The Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar (CHF225,000 or RM911,311) solves an age-old problem for that particular complication: if allowed to run down, a perpetual calendar is notoriously finicky to set.
This timepiece solves that problem with an all-new development: at the push of a button, it enters a standby mode that extends the power reserve to a maximum of 65 days. This means that the calendar can keep track of the date for up to two months after a full winding. This is accomplished with a movement that took four years to develop, one with two geartrains: a high-frequency one that beats at 5Hz for accuracy and performance (active mode; it acts more or less like a normal movement, with a power reserve of four days) and a low-frequency one at 1.2Hz that makes the most of the remaining power (standby mode; it is not recommended for normal use as it will suffer from stability issues, but will be fine if left in a drawer). The switching system between active and standby modes is lag-free and seamless.
The look of the watch reflects the forward-thinking approach. The 42mm platinum case is a cool complement to the slate-grey dial, the bottom half of which is openworked. The date discs are exposed and translucent, and the mode indicator at 9 o’clock will never let the wearer forget that a revolutionary feature is on their wrist.
SIHH 2019 Recap
The 29th edition of Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) was another record-breaking one, counting 23,000 visitors over its four days. Geneva’s Palexpo convention centre was packed not only with people, but the latest about to be unleashed on the horological world from the 35 participating brands.
There were quite a few new beginnings and surprises. Ulysse Nardin reworked the iconic Freak, and Bovet’s debut introduced the fair to its historical pocket watch heritage. Vacheron Constantin and Hermes surprised with some truly innovative watchmaking, while Panerai showcased new limited editions that come with adventurous experiences attached. On their last appearances at SIHH, both Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille unveiled new collections—the former surprising with distinct and deliberate design, while the latter with a completely unexpected candy-themed range.
