High and mighty
It was once an infallible marker social status, a subject of sartorial debate and symbol of closely guarded secrets among bespoke connoisseurs. What is it? The collar of a shirt.
It had its own jargon, such as blue-collar and white-collar, which held great social connotations during Victorian times. Only the wealthy could afford white shirts with high-standing collars; clerical workers had to have low collars for ease of movement. The 20th century saw cycles of recurring styles, moving from post-war widespread affluence to 1950s conservatism, before moving back to looser styles. Despite its highs and lows, however, the collar continues to be the anchor of any outfit.
The Spread
Endorsed by Prince Charles, David Beckham, Douglas Fairbanks Jr and Ralph Lauren, the spread collar favours narrow faces as it softens strong facial lines. However, men with wider faces can sport it with equal aplomb, a la Lino Ieluzzi, owner of the Milanese haberdashery Al Bazar.
Aliases: Cutaway, Windsor and Regent.
Opt for: Fuller tie knots.
Perks: Ideal for suit-sans-tie looks.
The Point
Style cues from Daniel Craig’s James Bond in Skyfall, United Arrows’ creative director Yasuto Kamoshita and various Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire characters have re-popularised tab and pin collars, which favour the classic point variety. It flatters wider faces, although slim ones, such as Fred Astaire’s can fare surprisingly well.
Opt for: Smaller tie knots.
Perks: Tie knots stand proudly with tab and pin collars.
The Button-Down
Style commenters debate its appropriateness with suits and the qualities of a perfect collar roll, but we say it’s all about the attitude. Championed by rule-breakers such as Thom Browne, Nickelson Wooster as well as Ivy Leaguers, this collar suits a variety of face shapes.
Opt for: Smaller tie knots, or simply go without.
Perks: Transition effortlessly from day to night.
