in tandem

With a history streching back to 1867, Katnook is an Australian vineyard with a lot of history and a lot of heart. In the heart of the Coonawarra region in South Australia, it is home of some of the country’s finest terra rossa vineyards. The cooler climate of the region lends the estate-grown Katnook a milder taste than most other Australian wines, yet still deliciously varied. The full range of Katnook was on display at a recent one-night-only dinner at the Mandarin Grill, Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur, resulting in a heavenly menu that fit perfectly together.

To begin, a starter of duck foie gras terrine with vanilla jelly and roast pineapple chutney. Rich and smooth to a point that could be torpid, the addition of sea salt flakes scattered over the terrine and the tropical zest of the pineapple cuts through that. Paired with the Chardonnay Katnook Estate 2011, the wine might be oakey but it also possessed a brightness that married well with the heavy starter, which seemed a nod to the colder climate of Coonawarra.

Salad came in the form of a beautifully-plated green bean salad, pumpkin pickles and malt bread crisps with thin cured lamb leg medals. The accompanying Shiraz Katnook Estate 2009 was rich and velvety, while the lamb leg’s mild cure was reminiscent of ham, elevated by the punch of wholegrain Piment d’Espelette mustard. This was swiftly followed by a lovely tuna in dukkah crust, with the red bell pepper coulis adding a hint of Middle Eastern flavours that merged well with the rich Shiraz ‘Prodigy’ Katnook Estate 2009, a limited edition wine that undergoes extended aging.

Two wines flanked the main, Cabernet Sauvignon, Katnook Estate 2008 and Cabernet Sauvignon, “Odyssey” Katnook Estate 2009. One lighter and one heavier, the wines each revealed a different facet of the main – grilled sher wagyu sirloin with Xerex vinegar-glazed pearl onions and potato gratin – changing the atmosphere to either spring, or autumn. With the thoughts of cooler seasons in the air, that was the perfect segue into a dessert of warm Valhorna dark chocolate tart with raspberry creameux and vanilla ice cream. A glass of Dow’s Fine Ruby Port lent a syrupy coating to the delicious and dark tart. As pairing menus go, this was a sated triumph. So cheers to that, Katnook.

Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur