- No products in the basket.
There’s style in the air. As always, the 92nd edition was a whirlwind of captivating menswear and scintillating street style. Around every corner is a Pitti peacock preening himself. And just like that, the four-day Pitti Uomo 92 in Florence has ended. Next on the agenda is Milan for its men’s fashion week, but before we leave, here are five standout moments from the world’s premier menswear event.
1. The Bike Polo Tournament
Held by: Christian Louboutin
A little fun and recreation was had by the French footwear maestro Christian Louboutin, who hosted eight teams competing for the Bike Polo championship. The rules are simple: three a side on bicycles, with the same mallet, ball and goal mechanics of polo. France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, the UK and the USA were represented with the Italian team, Treee, ultimately the winner.
Of course, Louboutin provided the shoes for the players. Each team sported the coming Fall/Winter 2017 season’s “Aurelien" sneaker in team-specific colourways. The sneaker itself is a low-top with the stylings of 90s basketball shoes with an innovative neoprene sock that provides both comfort and the option of wearing the shoes without tying the laces. Now that’s footloose and fancy free.
2. The Seemingly Political Agenda by Jenny Holzer
At Virgil Abloh’s debut Pitti Uomo show as a guest designer, political urgency seemed a higher priority than doling out another season’s worth of clothing. Projected and writ large against the Pitti Palace’s facade was a series of poems reflecting the refugee crisis, a collaboration between Abloh and conceptual artist Jenny Holzer.
Largely, Off-White’s collection was rendered in technical fabrics, with a sense of escape and border crossing gone luxe. But in the massive show space, the clothes looked secondary to what seemed like a political message – perhaps the best thing to come out of what Abloh calls his “most important" collection to date.
3. The Museum of Fashion
By: Olivier Saillard
Famed fashion historian and curator Olivier Saillard was in Florence to open his newest exhibition, The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion. The exhibition will explore the temporal and transient nature of clothing, drawing on Saillard’s borderline meta obsessions with the archival and exhibitional nature of fashion.
The master curator’s latest coup in The Ephemeral Museum was the choice to display over 200 archival items (from the likes of Prada, Balenciaga, Madame Gres, Schiaparelli, Lacroix, Vionnet and many more) almost haphazardly, brought out from their delicate storage boxes and laid on floors or draped across chairs.
The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion will run from 14 June to 22 October at the Gallerie degli Uffizi in Florence.
4. Hunting World debuted its first runway collection
50 years. That’s how long New York-based brand Hunting World went without showing a full ready-to-wear collection on a runway. At Pitti Uomo 92, the brand broke new ground, showcasing a collection by recently-hired designer Yosuke Aizawa. Aizawa’s past credits include founding White Mountaineering, working with Comme des Garcons, Moncler and Barbour – which should clue you in that he’s a man with a honed eye for fashionable sportswear.
Aizawa showed a collection of pared back and modern summer essentials evoking the spirit of adventure and the great outdoors. The clothes were effortless, and seamlessly blended technical sensibilities with a modern customer’s more stylish demands. Nearly all the models carried handsome bags, carry-alls and luggages, which looked hardy enough for use in – well, presumably – the hunting world, and stylish enough for airport transfers. That’s a best-of-both-worlds win for us.
5. Sneakers made from woven wool
By: Z Zegna
In case you were wondering, Alessandro Sartori isn’t done innovating and updating modern footwear yet. For his Z Zegna SS18 collection, Sartori (previously of Berluti fame) presented a new sneaker made from woven wool. Featuring a chunky rubber sole and a sleek upper made from lightweight and breathable Techmerino wool – the genius shoe combined the material prowesses of the Zegna brand with Sartori’s keen aesthetic sense.