Patek Philippe just dropped a trio of chronograph watches, each with a secondary complication: one with a perpetual calendar (Ref. 5204R-011), one with an annual calendar (Ref. 5905/1A-001), and a third with Patek’s iconic world time (Ref. 5930P-001). One of them is stainless steel, a rare metal for Patek Philippe, and two have dials in shades of green, which couldn’t be more on trend.
The Ref. 5905/1A-001 pairs a self-winding flyback chronograph with an annual calendar. The sportiest offering of the new lineup, it comes with a green dial, stainless steel case and integrated bracelet. It’s a daily wear with a useful complication and given that it comes in steel, the metal of the moment, this will arguably be one of the hardest models to get your hands on. The day/date/month apertures are arranged in an arc across the upper dial in Patek’s familiar annual calendar layout —the model was originally launched in platinum in 2015, followed by rose gold in 2019—and the same discreet day/night indicator at 6 o’clock. The dial is a toned-down olive shade, and comes with an integrated steel bracelet inspired by Patek’s sporty Aquanaut collection, even though it has a different case shape. It contains the automatic CH 28-520 QA 24H movement, which is based on the CH 28-520 flyback chronograph calibre introduced by Patek Philippe in 2006.
But if that doesn’t make you green with envy perhaps the World Time Flyback Chronograph, Ref. 5930P-001 will. It dials the rich hue up a notch in a brighter shade Patek calls “bottle green” for a striking update to one of the brand’s most iconic complications. The centre dial is finished in a circular guilloché pattern, surrounded by a white city ring with matching green lettering for the city names, and a matching green alligator strap. Originally launched in 2016 in white gold with a blue dial, the World Time Flyback Chrono was inspired by a one-of-a-kind model from 1940, with the wing type lugs that were typical of world timers from the era. The chronograph hour totalizer is at 6 o’clock on the inner dial, and the central chronograph hand doubles as a permanent running seconds. The movement is the automatic CH 28-520 HU, also based on the CH 28-520, with the addition of a world-time function that simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones. When changing time zones, a special patented mechanism enables correction of all displays without affecting the accuracy of the movement. The hand-polished platinum case is set with a diamond at 6 o’clock, as are the cases in all platinum watches made by Patek Philippe. The white gold hour markers and dauphine hands are given a luminescent coating. With a case measuring a mere 39.5mm x 12.86mm, it is a smart size for every wrist.
The Ref. 5204R-011, a split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar, explores a different design trend: the combination of rose gold case and slate gray dial. Otherwise the watch is a purist Patek Philippe perpetual calendar dial design, with the day and month displays in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock, and the combination date index and moon phase at 6 o’clock. The small seconds and 30-minute counters are in their traditional spots at 9 and 3 o’clock. It contains the CHR 29-535 PS Q movement, the chronograph base of which was launched by Patek in 2009, famously in a ladies watch, and in 2012 with the perpetual calendar added, on Ref. 5204P-110. The movement holds seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism.
But its beauty is inside and out. The slate grey dial and matching strap paired with rose gold case changes the design almost as much as the green transform the World Time. (The Ref. 5204 has been in the current collection since 2016 in two rose gold versions, one with a silvered opaline dial and the other with an ebony black dial.) The result is a very modern interpretation of a Patek’s most signature complication combo.
Previously published on Robb Report.