Located on the ground floor of Jazz Hotel, Penang, HAKU – Extraordinary Japanese Cuisine is potentially a strong contender in the island’s burgeoning and competitive Japanese dining scene. Although it is not strictly an omakase spot, HAKU is a luxurious establishment that looks to preserve the integrity of ingredients and to accentuate the way they are prepared and sourced, which reignites a sense of excitement around Japanese fusion cuisine in Penang.
Japanese decorative elements, including natural materials such as wood and earthy tones, were used for its interior to create a serene yet elegant space, with private rooms available. Even the unique dinnerware comprises tasteful pieces from Japan painstakingly selected by its owner W.Y. Tan, who also travels to the country every two months as a source of inspiration for dishes.
Its name HAKU, meaning ‘pure’ or ‘white’, is a testament to its dedication to serving fresh and premium quality ingredients and dishes. The pork-free kitchen is helmed by Chef Kent Chew, who has honed his skills in the art of Japanese cuisine at hotels and fine dining establishments for over two decades.
I visited HAKU for the second edition of their ‘Caviar Odyssey, A Journey of Taste and Elegance’ dining experience, an eight-course meal paired with premium brands of wine, champagne, and of course sake, which served to enhance the buttery, briny caviar served. The restaurant also offers an extensive Japanese menu with set lunches.
A Culinary Experience with a Lasting Impression
Chef Kent’s dedication to maintaining authenticity while incorporating modern twists was evident in every dish I tasted, as every course served impressed me.
Three exceptional bottles of sake were served during the night, including the Dassai 39 Junmai Daiginjo Sake, Kokuryu Daiginjo ‘Crystal Dragon’ from a brewery more than two centuries old, and Daishichi ‘Shoka’, an award-winning sake that uses a free drip ‘shizuku’ method to capture the clarity and fragrance of the top-grade Yamadanishiki rice.
My indulgent meal began with a generous full can of Siberian Sturgeon Frosista Caviar served with a mother-of-pearl spoon alongside traditional condiments such as egg yolk, egg white, spring onion, and sour cream, all of which allowed the light and refreshing aftertaste of the star ingredient of the night to shine.
The evening continued with another starter, a Hokkaido sea urchin sitting on a bed of fresh scallops swimming in soybean milk and bean curd skin. This was topped with gold flakes and Ossetra Caviar, one of the most prized varieties with a rich flavour, which was the main focus of the dish. Although an unconventional combination, the smooth taste of the soy milk paired perfectly with the distinct, almost nutty taste of the caviar without overwhelming it.
With fresh ingredients being an emphasis at HAKU, the final starter and one of our favourites for the night was the pounded tuna, which was flown in from the Indian Sea only two days prior. The whole fillet was pan-seared to trap the flavours inside for a hint of smokiness and encased with sesame seeds to mask its fishy taste. Nori oil was drizzled on top as a final touch. Sizeable salmon roe on the side together with delicately creamy Amur Sturgeon Caviar created a burst of flavour with every bite with tuna that practically melted in my mouth, and the result dazzled my tastebuds.
It may be hard to fathom that a palate cleanser can be appetising, but Chef Kent achieved this with an inspired cucumber and vinegar gelée creation, dished out with bonito flakes and Japanese seaweed. The hybrid caviar Imperial Auslese had a clean taste that went well with the overall refreshing concept of the dish. A slightly sweet and slightly bitter concoction that was altogether perfect for our Malaysian climate, it served to cleanse my tastebuds and replenish water in the body after the generous goblets of alcohol I was served.
Savouring Precious Gems
For the main course, a handsome portion of coral trout was prepared sous vide, retaining the sweetness and silkiness of the fish while producing sumptuous bites of beautifully moist white fatty flesh. The addition of spinach, fennel and Amur caviar with its delicate notes created a perfect balance without taking over the character of the fish, while the aroma of savoury mirepoix acted as the dish’s foundation.
A dish that still lingers in my mind is the rich, buttery Wagyu sirloin served medium rare, which would dazzle any discerning palate. The Kaluga caviar, with its earthy, buttery flavour, gave just the right amount of mildly salty overtone to the meat. The velvety, cultured crème fraiche added a rich and tangy twist to the premium ingredient, while the lightness of the white asparagus and potato purée truly showcased the quality and marbling of the beef.
As the night came to a close, HAKU upped the ante on luxury with a Cold Truffle Capellini, kept simple by being prepared using nori oil that did not hide the true potential of the precious ingredient. Splendid amounts of black truffle shavings, chives, and Imperial Auslese caviar made the pasta equal parts simplicity and indulgence.
Although my appetite was fully satiated at this point, I allowed myself room for dessert. The silkiness of a Fromage white chocolate cheesecake, the acidic touch of yuzu sauce, and the satisfying crunch of the biscuit base made me fall in love with cheesecakes even more than I already have. Japanese rock melons are not expensive without reason, distinguished by their smooth consistency and delicious sweetness—so a slice of the ‘King of Melons’ brought the luscious cake together.
The eight-course dinner was a one-night event priced at RM488++ per person (original price RM888 ++). For other exclusive events held by HAKU, stay tuned to their social media pages for more information.
