They’re drinking less wine in the big wine countries, and the producers wonder why as they rip up thousands of hectares of the vines they planted in anticipation of the exact opposite, subsidised by their governments to staunch the glut.
Perhaps wines made from a deluge of grape juice were never really that fun or interesting to begin with, and new drinkers suffering their perennial hangovers have been turned to the joys of the new temperance movement featuring kombucha and Nolo. Like gluten-free bread, dairy-free milk, low-fat butter and egg-free omelettes symptomatic of our disillusionment with the ruination of farm produce, Nolo is a no- or low-alcohol wine. What is this, ChatGPT’s idea of a good time or the end of days?
Luckily, we bear witness to the appearance of several oases of sanity in the Klang Valley beyond a mirage. At least, for those of us who live or work close by, and are not trapped in carmageddon, these simple, real wine bars may yet prove accessible and safe spaces amidst a real and mounting mental health crisis. Robb Report Malaysia’s wine correspondent, still compus mentis, recently found sanctuary in natural wine bar, Mellow Wine & Dining Room, and is pleased to report on an uplifting experience, where generosity of spirit has been given a dash of savoir faire.
The base elements are none other than flesh and blood intelligence, and well-directed intentions, initiating a virtuous circle. Leading the bright and willing back-of-house team is Chef Larry Lam, who also chooses the wines, while Sim Chee How reconciles mammon with the good business.
Both men are delightful budding wine buffs, open and curious, nosing and tasting their way towards discovery, sip by sip. Having made a success of the Superfine eatery at Seventeen Mall in PJ, they’ve taken their next step by giving it a BFF, joining them at the hip of their spiffy shared kitchen. Lam courageously opened the door unannounced, and we waltzed through nearing dinner service as the surprised crew had orders on the boil. For what it’s worth, your non-chef correspondent thinks Escoffier might have approved.
Aiding and abetting Lam and Sim are the former’s better half, Kenix (who named Mellow) and sister Felicia. The duo leads the front of house team (but were not present for our visit), do the marketing and, no doubt, manage what the men cannot, including the men themselves.
Enabling the quartet, in the background, are Ng Han Yang and Rachel Leong, young venture capitalists and a prodigious couple with a background in the property sector. Both are enthusiastic new winos as well. Ng’s family developed, own and help run Seventeen Mall, neighbourhood-friendly and of a human scale. One of Ng’s hats is as Seventeen’s business development dude, while Leong directs strategy at Mah Sing Group, founded by her father.
Section 17 of PJ is neither prime real estate nor an obvious location (location, location) for a precocious wine bar. It’s a mature neighbourhood and a historical proto suburb of the original KL city. Mellow’s architecture engages in conversation with its place; its high and wide glass frontage is urbane and attractive, neatly diffusing heat and light with empty wine bottles, while blending into its surroundings.
From its vantage point, a casual observation of the street nearing sunset shows the diversity and inter-generational demographic of its promenading residents. Out and about with the cosmopolitan public, golden oldies of good vintage seem to have dodged decrepitude and dementia by keeping up with the action on the ground rather than on-screen. There may be better, more homogenous, catchment areas from a purely commercial point of view, but as a place to be, Section 17 is, well, Superfine, Mellow and Seventeen.
Get here and you’ll feel the same way. Give the driver a break, you won’t have to drive the Lambo around in a satanic circle just for parking. Then walk in from a tidy pavement becalmed of traffic, through the properly sized front door, and into the simply lovely, airy and naturally illuminated space. Relax into your custom-made chair of reassuringly solid wood, and all is right with the world.
The truly aromatic wines on open display invite your exploration of their intriguing terroir and rejuvenating qualities; the small and sharing plates are equally delicious. Lam, who is self-taught, exemplifies a generation of chefs who appreciate that tasty food and drink come from fine ingredients given time and patience, and Mellow would like to offer patrons the same for their good health and prosperity.
Mellow Wine and Dining Room, Seventeen Mall, Jalan 17/38, Section 17, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.
Photography: Law SooPhye
