Audemars Piguet is back with a 41 mm selfwinding openworked offering, now in three striking case and bracelet materials. Stainless steel is going to resonate with the traditionalists, the yellow gold with those who like a louder wrist flex, and black ceramic will offer up a stealthy, futuristic vibe.

The Royal Oak was originally penned by acclaimed designer Gerald Genta, who singlehandedly revolutionised the sports watch market. Audemars Piguet is sometimes said to have a hard time getting past its strong association with the Royal Oak, but this doesn’t seem to be hurting the brand whatsoever. As expert collector and vintage dealer at Analog:Shift, James Lamdin, told us, “The brand is still in demand, and so [the Royal Oak] is still hard to get at the boutiques.” This situation may not come as a surprise to experienced collectors of the Royal Oak, though this new iteration may be especially difficult to get one’s hands on, as it’s at what many consider a perfect size (41 mm) with just enough technology (dual-barrel calibre 3132) and flash (openworked dial) to sing on the wrist.

Especially attractive here is the rose gold tone movement in the steel and ceramic versions. Against the steel, you’ve got a unique bi-metal (or two-tone) sensibility, and against the black ceramic that rose gold movement seems to blossom like a midnight flower. Both are very chic. But it may be the yellow gold iteration that comes closest to classic Royal Oak vibes, with the long-used 18-carat case and bracelet featuring a much quieter rhodium-plated movement that’s all smoke and shadow.

Calibre 3132 employs a dual balance wheel, which is a unique approach to minimising the tilt of the balance staff (on which the balance wheel oscillates back and forth). When the balance wheel swings, there is a tendency for it to tilt within its ruby mount, which allows gravity to have its way with it, causing timing discrepancies in different positions (known as positional variance). By adding a second balance wheel (not just a second spring, as found in some movements), Audemars Piguet has added stabilising mass to the mechanism, as well as counter-force that steadies the balance staff as it changes direction.

Prices are RM347,740 for stainless, and RM460,260 for either the ceramic or yellow gold model.

More photos of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch

Audemars Piguet

Previously published on Robb Report USA