Revealed at Watches & Wonders 2024 was a diverse horological line-up from Chanel with no small amount of creativity, whimsy and serious mechanical aptitude despite its clean lines and simplicity of form. The Couture O’Clock capsule collection is directly inspired by the maison’s famous haute couture and, specifically, the ateliers, workshops and tools with which Mademoiselle Coco Chanel made her name. From the expansive array of some 20 references, we bring you a few highlights.
Musical Clock Couture Workshop
Table-mounted automata clocks are often ornate displays of extravagance, but there is a simplicity and sartorial efficiency to the unique piece Musical Clock Couture Workshop—but it is no less precious for it. Time is told by a simple scale around the base, one that resembles a tailor’s measuring tape. When activated, the five sculpted dresses, created from ceramic and decorated with black leather ribbons and diamond-set gold brooches, will be sent into a carousel beneath a chandelier from which 26 pear-cut diamond tassels hang. Meanwhile, a music box rendition of My Woman by Al Bowlly, a song that Mademoiselle liked to hum, will play. The base is covered with 245 marquetry pieces of black onyx.
Bust Long Necklace Couture
There is a restrained elegance to this piece, which is once again simple but precious. The dressmaker’s form is rendered here in yellow gold, snow-set with 1,610 brilliant-cut diamonds of about 21 carats, and trimmed in black lacquer. Sliding it open at the waist reveals it to be a secret watch with a black-lacquered dial, powered by a quartz movement. The yellow gold chain holds a further 133 brilliant-cut diamonds. It is limited to 20 pieces.
Mademoiselle J12 Couture Watch
The J12 is a modern classic, and here hosts a special guest—the dial sports a monochrome illustration of Mademoiselle in her iconic hat and jacket. The backdrop is actually a rotating disc, with gold-powdered print motifs of various tailoring accoutrements, taking five minutes to complete a revolution. Limited to 55 pieces, the 38mm case is in black ceramic and black-coated steel, with a black ceramic bracelet to match. Forty-six baguette-cut diamonds adorn the bezel. It is powered by a self-winding manufacture movement with a 70-hour power reserve.
Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion Ring Couture
The humble but essential pincushion is the inspiration for this piece. At 40mm in diameter, it is a showpiece of a ring, with a black quilted motif dial on which yellow gold pins capped with pearls are arranged in a radial pattern—along with 12 diamonds that serve as hour markers. Powered by a quartz movement, the circumference of the dial and the yellow gold case are also decorated with diamonds—there are 168 in all. This timepiece is limited to five pieces.
Première Ruban Couture Watch
The Première Ruban Couture Watch features a double-wrapped leather strap, with golden leather trim on one side and a black tape measure motif on the other. This quartz-powered timepiece measures about 20mm by 15mm, and has a black-lacquered dial to go with its yellow gold case. Hanging off the case is a Coco charm—a whimsical depiction of a winking Mademoiselle—again in yellow gold and black lacquer.
J12 Couture 33mm Watch
The J12 is at its most iconic in white ceramic, and here has a small but significant twist: the hour and minute hands form scissors, while the second hand is styled after a sewing needle. The self-winding manufacture movement is chronometer certified, with a 50-hour power reserve, and the bezel is set with 46 baguette-cut diamonds. It is limited to 55 pieces.
