From olfactory masters and tale spinners to experimental makers and eco-driven setters, the house of Guerlain has flourished for nearly 200 years, changing the face of fragrance and beauty. Their illustrious history began with Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, an accomplished perfumer-chemist who opened his first boutique at rue de Rivoli in Paris, which soon became a prime site for the highbrow and well-to-do.
The house’s prestige soared across Europe’s royal courts, securing the title of ‘Official Perfumer to His Majesty’ after creating Eau de Cologne Impériale in 1853 as a wedding gift for Empress Eugénie, following her marriage to Napolean III. Since then, five generations of Guerlain perfumers have upheld the creative legacy of the house. Today, Thierry Wasser is the custodian of a portfolio that comprises more than 1,100 scented profiles.
A globetrotter, Wasser travels each season to various corners of the world to source the precious raw ingredients that form the backbone of Guerlain’s compositions. Together with Delphine Jelk, his fellow nose and creative director, he brings new, intriguing scents to life. “I bear a huge responsibility when it comes to curating fragrances. Both sourcing and formulation are taken very seriously,” Wasser states. Certain regions, like Haiti, where the world’s primary supply of vetiver oil comes from, can be challenging to source from. Despite the country’s struggles, Wasser is committed to offering support to those in need. “Even though it’s not the easiest or safest place to work, abandoning them is not the solution. We believe in extending our support, no matter the difficulties.”
Central to Guerlain’s fragrance heritage is its signature Guerlinade, featuring a medley of six integral elements—vanilla, bergamot, tonka bean, iris, rose and jasmine. “Guerlinade is truly the foundation of our house,” Wasser explains. “When these six components are blended, they create the distinct texture and unmistakable trademark scent. It is crucial for us to preserve this olfactory identity. Guerlinade isn’t just a formula—it’s the essence of our brand’s legacy. As the fifth generation, it’s my duty to honour and continue that tradition.”
In 2021, the L’Art & La Matière collection was revived, consisting of fragrant gems that take shape from a deep artistic impulse. Each creation isolates a hero extract, processed with precise care and embedded within the overall mix. The redesigned 1870 square bottle has been modernised, offering refillable convenience and customisable options. The latest addition to the collection, Patchouli Paris, is Jelk’s newest concoction. It unveils a previously unexplored facet of the French capital—the riveting pulls of its nocturnal charm. Unbridled, patchouli dominates with a warm woody depth, blending with the refreshing breeze of the Seine’s banks, which evokes the pulsating nights of Paris and its grand theatres.
The profile is charged with aldehydes, forming an immediate, skin-tingling effect. Patchouli is used in abundance, immediately making its presence known in all its complex and multifaceted sublimity. Although an exceptional ingredient, its appeal lies in its rough edges—the subtle camphorous nuances and earthy undertones are softened with amber-toned silage of vanilla, ambergris accord and musk. The bottle comes with two limited edition plates, which celebrate Paris at its finest. The first plate is bathed in brilliant red to echo French artist Christian Bérard’s hallmark touch, while the second plate is a handcrafted collaboration with feather artist Valérie Tanfin.
“As a perfumer, you learn to speak the language of fragrance,” Wasser says. “Many people hear it, but only a few truly understand it. To me, it’s a three-step process: the raw material, the extract and then the spirit—the story the fragrance tells. Ultimately, it’s about creating an invisible image, leaving a trail for those around you.”
Guerlain’s Patchouli Paris is now available at Guerlain boutiques, including Guerlain The Exchange TRX Ultimate Boutique, Parkson (Pavilion Kuala Lumpur and 1 Utama Shopping Centre), and Isetan (The Gardens Mall). The 100ml bottled is priced at RM1,800, while the 200ml bottle is priced at RM2,580.
Cover image: Thierry Wasser is the master perfumer of the legendary French luxury fragrance house Guerlain, appointed in 2008 as the fifth perfumer in the brand’s history and the first non-family member to hold this prestigious role.
