For collectors who want to stay ahead of the haute horlogerie curve, few watch brands satisfy quite like Franck Muller. Frequently seen on the wrists of celebrities such as Cristiano Ronaldo and Elton John, the manufacture combines bold aesthetics and groundbreaking innovations. Each timepiece, which doubles as a veritable work of art, is handcrafted in the brand’s Watchland facility in Genthod, near Geneva, where it constructs its own high-complication movements.
The brand was founded in 1991 by Franck Muller and Vartan Sirmakes, and thus can be considered a relatively new watch manufacture. However, it has already earned its place among the top-tier names in watchmaking as it continues to cement its position as the Master of Complications with radical new takes on its original and iconic Long Island collection. First launched in 2000, with sophisticated time-only models that paid tribute to the art deco movement, this collection has since evolved to incorporate more advanced complications.
Good Things Come in Threes
Many Franck Muller pieces are known to be highly collectible and its Long Island Evolution collection is a prime example of this as it is an exclusive series available only in Asia Pacific. To create the three distinct models, the original Long Island design was first deconstructed and its curves, angles, and fine lines refined with a contemporary flair.
The timepieces’ new case incorporates an additional inner case that secures the shaped movements driving the watch for added shock protection. Naturally, Franck Muller has gone the extra mile in creating rectangular movements that precisely fit the shape of the case. The multi-layered construction, a feat of engineering, enables the sapphire crystal protecting the display of the watch to be attached to the flange without any visible fixing screws. All three watches are fitted with manually wound movements and wouldn’t look out of place when worn at a red-carpet event or in a beachfront cafe.
The stunning set of three are lean, mean, green machines with a touch of black. The aluminium inner case is anodised in a pine green colour to create a surface that is three times harder than standard aluminium. Meanwhile, its outer case is fashioned with titanium and given a black PVD treatment with satin-brushing. To create an infinite green line that wraps around both sides of the watch tastefully, the cases are paired with luxurious alligator leather straps in matte black, featuring hand-sewn contrast stitching and edges in the same pine green colour.
Time Reimagined
The Long Island Evolution Master Jumper (RM438,400) sets a world first thanks to its innovative triple jumping complication with five rotating numbered discs. It reinvents the way of displaying time with three numerical indications for the hour, minute, and date. Although jumping displays are commonly used for perpetual calendars, this watch—which is limited to 100 pieces—was the first to exclusively use jumping displays to indicate both time and date. Despite its complex nature, the timepiece is easy to read, with a new vertical and equidistant jumping display featuring three windows arranged in a column down the middle of the watch case.
Marking a first for Franck Muller, an inner sapphire crystal has been added at the level of the inner bezel, giving a three-dimensional depth to the timepiece and an extra touch of luxury. On its second sapphire crystal are printed details of the Calibre FM 3100, which was uniquely designed for this timepiece, showcasing the movement’s technical prowess in an artistic way. The movement is hand-finished with numerous techniques practised in the Franck Muller manufacture, and required four years of development.
Masterpieces in Motion
Meanwhile, the Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve (RM200,300) is limited to 300 pieces. This timepiece is fully skeletonised, which allows the wearer to look into its gorgeous internal mechanism through the sapphire crystal. Equipped with the hand-wound FM 1745 Calibre movement, the model offers a purist watchmaking experience. Its piece de resistance is its impressive seven-day power reserve, with a precise oscillator running at a steady 18,000vph. The watch further unveils its brilliance in the dark as it features large Arabic hour numerals painted with Super-LumiNova to indicate the time.
A Dance of Precision
Rounding up the trio is the Long Island Evolution Giga Tourbillon (RM1,030,900), of which a mere eight pieces are available. Franck Muller’s Giga Tourbillon movement is truly outstanding as it features one of the largest tourbillons ever incorporated into a wristwatch. Measuring a substantial 20mm in diameter, this impossible-to-miss feature is nearly twice the size of a standard tourbillon.
Its massive tourbillon cage occupies more than half the entire movement, with a three-pointed supporting bridge that is closely mirrored in the bridges of the barrels that hold four mainsprings in total. These offer an impressive four-day power reserve, indicated in a display between the barrels. Two hands filled with Super-LumiNova indicate the hours and minutes, while the oversized tourbillon also functions as a running seconds counter.
The message Franck Muller is sending is clear: it has revolutionised the horological field in the past three decades and the best is yet to come.
The Long Island Evolution timepieces are available in Franck Muller’s flagship store in Pavilion Kuala Lumpur (03 2141 5410) and in Cortina Watch’s boutiques in Suria KLCC (03 2164 5175), Pavilion Damansara Heights (03 2011 0096), The Starhill in Kuala Lumpur (03 2144 1188), Imago Shopping Mall in Kota Kinabalu (08 8277 818), and Gurney Plaza in Penang (04 227 1026).
