Haute perfumery houses treat fragrances as fine art, composed with rare, high-grade materials sourced from nature’s most remote corners. Produced in small runs to ensure quality and ageing, each creation reflects the perfumer’s role as artisan, researcher, and storyteller. Still, the art of conveying emotion through scent is a complex one, and it’s something Antonin Khalifé, Henry Jacques’ perfumer, instinctively grapples with. “Emotion is very subjective,” he explains. “What gives me a certain feeling might not move someone else at all. That’s the most challenging part—creating something that stirs within you, but is also open enough for others to connect with in their own way.”
For Khalifé, time is a co-creator: “Sometimes, a perfume may not immediately evoke anything specific for someone. But, over time, as they wear and experience life in it, it begins to carry emotion and becomes a vessel for memory.” The goal, he says, is not to dictate what one feels, but to offer a space for people to create their own emotional imprint. Such understanding doesn’t come overnight; it’s a cycle of observation and experimentation, made even more personal as the grandson of the brand’s founder, Henry Cremona. The brand has remained a family-owned business for decades, and with that comes a deeply rooted set of values passed down through generations. “There’s no cutting corners, ever,” he reflects. “Attention to detail is everything. It’s important to maintain humility during the creative process. The constant self-correction and vigilance are what ensure every bottle carries the highest standards.”
Longtime admirers of the brand will recognise its signature multi-layered compositions, built as high-perfumery statements that gradually deepen in character. But when it comes to determining the first note, the process isn’t always linear for Khalifé. It can begin with instinct or evolve from a more structured vision. “Sometimes, I start with a clear idea of the final perfume,” he says, “but I also allow myself to be guided by spontaneity.” The creative process often unfolds through a mix of intuition and constant adjustments, until the fragrance finds its form. In some ways, this may be why the latest expression, Il Y Avait Un Jardin… feels so intentional and stripped back to its most essential and eloquent parts (the name means ‘There Was A Garden…’).
Despite the subtle shift in tone, the creative rhythm and disciplined artistry remain unchanged in both scented editions, No. I and No. II (250ml for RM1,650). “Compared with more elaborate compositions, this collection was about delivering a clear, universal message—simple, yet far from basic,” Khalifé says. “We worked with citruses, which are familiar and widely used, but we approached them with specific intent and attention. The idea was to create scents that are easy to wear every day. You wake up, get ready, and this fragrance just fits, especially on a warm summer day. It’s practical, but still refined.”
Although both scents share a fresh citrus profile, the difference lies in their initial sensory impression. No. I opens with a sun-kissed medley of bergamot, lemon, and bitter orange, with rosemary adding an aromatic lift. It flows gently into notes of petitgrain, rosewood, sandalwood, benzoin, and ambery cistus. No. II (Khalifé’s personal favourite), in contrast, reveals a denser and more textured experience. Its warm nutmeg, creamy tonka bean, earthy vetiver, and amber-rich base lend it a deeper, more sensual character. “We’re not pretending we’ve reinvented anything. Our aim here was to create the best version of a cologne we’ve ever done,” he states. “That’s what makes it exciting. It may seem familiar, but at this level of balance and variation, it becomes a new discovery—even for us. And that, to me, is something very beautiful.”
There’s no denying that the art of scent-making has evolved significantly, particularly in how it resonates with the public today. Khalifé believes the tide is turning. “The new generation is already shaping a more intentional and artistic future for fragrance. I see groups of young people coming into our boutiques, spending hours exploring our scents,” he observes. “They approach with curiosity, like walking into a library. They may not have the means to buy a bottle yet, but their interest is genuine.
“I feel very lucky to be creating perfumes at this moment in time,” he adds. “We’re emerging from a long era of industrialisation in perfumery, where scents were mass-produced. People would purchase a single fragrance, often from an airport in a hurry, and stick with it for life. That’s not what we do, and I’m so thankful that my family never fell into that mindset. We’ve always stayed true to our craft.”
The new Il Y Avait Un Jardin… collection is now available in all Henry Jacques boutiques.
