Considering the fact that Bawah Reserve is around 240km from Mersing, Johor, it’s surprising that I’m the only Malaysian during my time here in this veritable paradise. The majority of its guests are either Singaporean or those from far-flung lands who first land in Singapore, take a night or two to recover from jetlag, hop on the hour-long ferry to Indonesia’s Batam Island to clear immigration and customs, and then board an 80-minute flight to Bawah Reserve to live and breathe its ethos of sustainable luxury.
Of the 250 or so islands that are part of the Anambas Archipelago, six belong to Bawah Reserve: Bawah, Batu Tokong, Muerba, Sanggah, Lidi, and Elang. Owner and founder Tim Hartnoll first discovered the islands in 2012 during a family sailing trip. Hartnoll so fell in love with the area that he endeavoured to share the islands with the world. He worked with Singapore-based architect Sim Boon Yang to bring his vision of an unadulterated, paradisical bolthole to life, and, thus, Bawah Reserve opened in 2018.
The property consists of 36 keys—all of which are standalone suites, including 11 Overwater Bungalows—as well as four delightful dining outlets, a superb spa, a terrific fitness centre, and plenty of hiking trails to challenge even the most ardent of trekking enthusiasts. Rates start from USD1,900 per night (or from USD18,000 for a 10-person buyout of the Elang Private Residences), and are inclusive of all meals, all non-alcoholic beverages, one spa treatment per person per day, certain water and land activities, wellbeing classes, laundry, and more. My advice: take full advantage of the laundry services, because you’ll need to pack really light to abide by the amphibious plane’s strict weight limit of 15kg of luggage per person.
As I walk down the jetty after the water landing, chief operating officer Paul Robinson greets me by name. I would later learn that he’s lived almost all of his life in various parts of Indonesia (he’s English), and his Indonesian is more or less native. “Bawah Reserve offers everything you love about tropical islands. We’re like the Maldives, the Seychelles, and Fiji—all rolled into one magical place,” he says. “We’ve got the turquoise waters and powdery white beaches of the Maldives. Then, there’s the lush greenery and dramatic rock formations that will remind you of the Seychelles. And the warmth? That’s pure Fiji but with an Indonesian heart. Our team is made up of some of the kindest, most welcoming people you will ever meet.”
One short buggy ride to my villa later, I find out that all three of Robinson’s comparisons are spot on. Bawah island’s rugged natural beauty permeates my senses. The pathways are windy and hilly, to avoid altering nature and chopping trees as much as possible. The water outside and under my villa is supernaturally turquoise. The breeze is beautiful, the sunshine glorious. And every single staff member I encounter during my all-too-short stay—from the buggy drivers and the concierge I communicate with daily via phone or WhatsApp (via the provided smartphone), to the dining team and the masseuses at Aura Spa—are jovial, caring, and gracious to a fault.
When one of my flip-flops breaks, an affable resort staffer fixes it within hours. When I enquire about Coconut Beach, which is usually reserved for those who pay extra for the Private Picnic experience, the concierge sneaks me in for a few hours when the schedule serendipitously opens up. When I ask which trail has the best views but needs the least amount of effort, they recommend the Main Lookout point, remind me to apply sunscreen and insect repellent (both of which are provided and are friendly to both nature and all skin types), and to bring sufficient water as well as the provided walkie-talkie. My actual family members are never this nice to me.
Although the F&B team would be more than happy to arrange for in-villa dining, I opt to dine at Tree Tops restaurant, which boasts fine Asian-fusion cuisine and tremendous views, as well as The Boat House, which is a laidback beach hangout that has barbecue dinners. The Grouper bar is where guests meet current and new friends over a drink, bar bites, and board games, while Jules Verne bar is at the pinnacle of Bawah island, and the place to be to enjoy cocktails featuring fresh ingredients from the natural and permaculture gardens that grow all over Bawah Reserve. Every meal and every drink I enjoy is beyond delicious and nutritious; they’re food for the soul.
The azure waters of Bawah Reserve are not only crystal clear, they’re also the perfect temperature for a swim any time of the day. Snorkelling gear is provided for every guest, whether you’d like to explore the waters by your suite or join a guided snorkelling tour—the latter should not be skipped, even if you can’t swim or are prone to seasickness. The underwater technicolour show of corals, turtles, fish, and other marine life will enchant snorkellers as well as divers of all skill levels. But if all of that somehow isn’t enough, the Sunset Cruise will surely convince you that you’re already in utopia.
More heavenly experiences await at Aura Spa, whose experts will guide you through six journeys towards enhancing your well-being: Restore, Balance, Protect, Purify, Glow, and Beyond. Most therapies are included in your rates, and all feature ingredients from the gardens of Bawah Reserve, as well as from resources that abide by EU natural skincare standards. On my first day, I begin with The Barely There Massage, a gentle but affirming way to reset the creaks and cracks from head to toe. The Indonesian Fusion Massage is just right for day two, featuring Balinese and Swedish techniques to release deeply held tension. I then amp it up to the Explorer’s Muscle Recovery on my final day, as I want to prepare myself adequately to re-enter the rat race. The strong pressure (always adjustable upon request) jolts me back, ready for anything Kuala Lumpur could throw at me upon return.
There is a succinct way to sum up Bawah Reserve, as stated on its website, welcome booklets, and all around the island: “Bawah will change you.” As I stand on the mini-platform from the Main Lookout point after a 40-ish-minute hike, gazing at the dreamlike vistas that no algorithm could ever generate, I do something I’m never able to do while chasing deadlines or fighting through traffic: I ponder, I reflect, and I contemplate. I remember the ups and downs of every year of my life up to that point, and I look ahead to what and who I hope will come next. The moment sinks in. I pause, look up and around, say a word of thanks, and smile.
“Whether you’re here to relax, explore, learn, or heal, Bawah is your space to restore—your way,” Robinson says to me as we saunter on the jetty towards my departure flight. “We want guests to walk away feeling changed in a positive way, whether that’s being inspired so that they care more about marine conservation, reconnect with their family, or that Bawah simply gives them the space to breathe and feel a little more grounded. We want their time to resonate with them long after their stay. That’s what we mean by ‘Bawah will change you’.”
