The Octo Finissimo has been Bvlgari’s dominant force in recent years, and rightfully so, given its incredible and extensive technical accomplishments. But it’s a good time to be reminded of its original horological legacies, the tautologically named Bvlgari Bvlgari. This was born in 1975, exactly 50 years ago, and was something of an accident—it wasn’t meant as a serious foray into watchmaking. At that time, it was a 100-piece run that wasn’t meant for sale but were, instead, presented as gifts to certain clients. But something about the Bvlgari and its deceptively simple round case that alluded to ancient Roman coins struck a chord and, two years later, it was officially launched—with an aesthetic refined by a certain superstar watch designer of the era, one Gerald Genta.
It has not changed much since. Icons rarely need to, but they can be refreshed every now and again. The Bvlgari’s 50th anniversary editions are just that: a quartet of timepieces that feature dials made of marble. This is a material that Bvlgari is no stranger to, of course—it communicates a sort of Roman grandeur all by itself—but implementing it into watch dials poses a particular challenge due to the difficulty in cutting the stone to the necessary dimensions and precision. The result, though, is compelling, with the material’s customary visual depth offset by the uncluttered, timeless gleam of gold cases. The veining pattern of each dial is unique, effectively making each watch one-of-a-kind. “The Bvlgari Bvlgari watch is both simple and bold, always in tune with the times. Its pure design perfectly embodies our DNA without the need for additional ornamentation,” says the brand’s product creation executive director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, in a statement.
There are two executions with ‘Verde Alpi’ green marble dials: one in a 26mm diameter (RM55,300), and one in 38mm (RM73,600). These are limited to 150 pieces each, and have yellow gold cases that impart a vintage vibe. These also have a bezel inscribed with ‘Bvlgari Roma’, seemingly as a nod to the 1970s originals, as opposed to ‘Bvlgari Bvlgari’, which is found throughout the contemporary collection.
There are two further non-limited offerings: a 28mm version with an icy blue ‘Azzuro Infinito’ dial (RM55,300) and a 38mm dark blue ‘Blue Incanto’ dial (RM73,600). These have rose gold cases.
The smaller watches are equipped with quartz movements and are lean, feminine, and equipped with diamond indices. The larger, more masculine—or neutrally gendered, depending on who you ask—watches house Bvlgari’s self-winding BVL 191 manufacture movement, which has a 42-hour power reserve.
