I Dined At Yiaga, Hugh Allen’s First Restaurant, And It Changed How I See Fine Dining

There are certain dining experiences that you carry well beyond the restaurant doors. Yiaga—meaning ‘seek and find’ from the local Wurundjeri language—by chef Hugh Allen is one of them. Tucked within the grounds of Melbourne’s historic Fitzroy Gardens, it didn’t take long to realise how rare it is for fine dining to feel this present and absorbing. There are no excessive flourishes clamouring for attention—just reverent food, attentive pacing, and a deep attunement to detail. Less a debut than a marker of purpose, the restaurant leans into its own rhythm, prioritising substance over spectacle.

Contrary to popular belief, great cooking isn’t measured by years or age, but by the people behind it. What diners respond to isn’t youth or seniority, but a chef’s sincerity to ingredients, curiosity, and the courage to learn and unlearn. Long before Yiaga existed, Allen had already moved through some of the world’s most demanding kitchens. He earned early acclaim with the 2016 Gault Millau Young Chef of the Year award and, by 23, he was leading Vue de monde as executive chef, where he helped secure Three Hats in Australia’s Good Food Guide.

Although Yiaga is Allen’s first restaurant, his early work hinted at the chef he would become, carrying the assurance of someone who waited until the moment felt right. “It has been my lifelong dream to open a restaurant from scratch, a place that truly reflects me, my team, and our journeys,” Allen says. “There’s no better feeling than being able to do it right here in my hometown, surrounded by one of Melbourne’s greatest landscapes.”

The ambience here plays its own role, and Allen has poured the same attention into it as he has into his cooking. The walk through the gardens is a simple pleasure on its own, but crossing the threshold of the pavilion—a site that was originally a tearoom, built in 1908—feels like entering a private cocoon. Every surface is a mosaic of careful craft, made in collaboration with Australian artisans.

Inside, the continuous tiled wall recalls the bark of the nearby elm trees. Designed over two years by John Wardle and Simon Lloyd, and crafted by ceramist Robert Gordon, the wall features more than 16,000 hand-formed terracotta tiles. Even the chairs were considered at length. Allen spent over three years finding the right one, believing it to be one of the most critical decisions in a restaurant. After more than 12 months of patient development and countless prototypes, Jon Goulder’s handmade Pavilion Dining Room Chair now completes the 44-seat space.

On the food front, Yiaga’s ever-evolving tasting menu (AU$295 per person) reads like a love letter to Australia’s producers, farmers, fishers, makers, and native landscapes. The retired Blackmore wagyu with steamed bread and green ants appears almost like a pepperoni at first glance. But beneath the deceptively simple-looking dish lies provenance and history. Allen first visited the Blackmore farm more than a decade ago as an apprentice, and the relationship has endured since. Taken from a retired breeding cow, the pasture-fed wagyu packs remarkable depth in just one bite.

The squid with Thai basil and desert lime comes as a light, refreshing counterpoint. Cut and twirled to resemble noodles in a bright green broth, it’s a dish best enjoyed with unabashed slurps. A course of kangaroo with maitake and native peppers sparked a conversation at the table about sustainability. Kangaroo, as a wild native species, requires no grain feeding or land clearing, making it one of Australia’s most environmentally responsible proteins. This context and awareness add weight to the dish that is robust, earthy, and unmistakably Australian.

At dessert, the same experimental attention shines through, where ecology and creativity intersect. Wakame, foraged from Southern Sea Greens in Port Phillip Bay, may be a foreign invader in its own waters but, in Allen’s kitchen, it finds new purpose. Here, the wakame is gently braised and paired with strawberry, rosella, crystallised shiso leaves, and fresh Gippsland cream. Perhaps the most whimsical surprise is the Banksia pop, which rightly demands a double-take, or maybe even a triple one. Eschewing the traditional plate, the decadent art is served skewered on a real banksia branch, with dark and caramelised chocolate, cocoa butter, black sesame caramel, roasted macadamia, and wattleseed ice-cream.

The beverage programme, curated by master sommelier Dorian Guillon, is more than just an accompaniment. The all-Australian option champions boutique producers and exclusive collaborations, while a more classical wine pairing guides diners through a selection of Old and New World favourites. Non-drinkers are equally well catered for, with daily non-alcoholic pairings that evolve with the seasons and the menu.

After years in the making, Yiaga sidesteps the fleeting and focuses on the lasting. The restaurant envisions monthly ‘Yiaga Sessions’ with local and international experts, alongside workshops and shared experiences. “This project has been an incredible journey, one that couldn’t have happened without the support of so many talented individuals,” Allen reflects. “We still have work to do. John (Wardle) and I are still discussing art, tweaks, and further improvements to the space, which, in the spirit of collaboration, will continue for many years to come.”

Yiaga is located at Fitzroy Gardens, East Melbourne VIC 3002, Australia, and is open Friday to Sunday for lunch, and Thursday to Saturday for dinner.

Reservations are open now through the end of April 2026, with May bookings opening on 1 February 2026 at 10am AEST (8am MYT). For more information, visit Yiaga’s official website.