Sylvie Loday, Co-Founder Of Ex Nihilo, Shares How A Former Engineer Reinvents Perfume
From the invention of the futuristic Osmologue machine to the brand’s newest Blue Talisman Extrait de Parfum, Ex Nihilo is shaped by a unique vision.
France’s love affair with perfumes grew significantly during the reign of Louis XIV, whose devotion to fragrance was so pervasive that the Court of Versailles became famously known as the perfumed court. Although some perfume houses draw on these centuries of heritage to build their identities, Ex Nihilo dares to start from scratch. “We are a French brand, but we took inspiration from a Latin expression. It means ‘from a blank page’,” says Sylvie Loday, co-founder of Ex Nihilo. “The idea behind it is to give the brand full creative freedom in everything we do—from the perfume creation to the design of our packaging and stores.”
Before establishing the brand alongside two partners, Loday had trained as an aeronautical engineer. With her technical expertise, she leads the perfume house with an inventive approach, as demonstrated by the creation of the Osmologue, a machine that crafts each customer’s personalised fragrance, found only in Ex Nihilo’s flagship locations. “To me, having an engineering background is very important because it brings an angle of innovation to the brand that we feel is truly differentiating,” she states. “But we also follow our hearts, sensations, and inspirations, allowing creativity to form the soul of the brand.”
For Ex Nihilo’s latest launch, she introduced the Blue Talisman Extrait de Parfum, two years after crafting the original eau de parfum. “The Blue Talisman Eau de Parfum was a celebration of our 10th anniversary. It’s a perfume created with perfumer Jordi Fernández, and the whole inspiration was Place Vendôme, the epitome of luxury in Paris. It is pure and beautiful,” Loday explains. “Today, we wanted to create an extrait version, a more intense and sensual version of the Blue Talisman. You’ll discover a lot more facets to the extrait.”
Is there a story from your time as an aeronautical engineer that you still think about?
There was a very special moment when I was at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). For my thesis, I did a project with NASA, developing a system for the International Space Station (ISS), and had the chance to test it in microgravity. I participated in two parabolic flights, where the aircraft performs arcs in the air, so you’re able to fly inside. This lasted for about two hours, and it was one of the best experiences of my life.
If you had stayed in aeronautics, how would you imagine your life to look like now?
I wish I could have become an astronaut and gone to the ISS to experiment with it. I would have liked to visit all the planets, starting with Mars. I think it’s a beautiful planet—I love the colour, and there’s so much to discover. And, of course, the Moon, because it’s something we see every day, which makes it quite special.
Are you looking to create an Osmologue 2.0 someday, and do you see AI playing a role in its evolution?
Absolutely. We’re always looking at innovation as a key part of the brand. The Osmologue was created when we launched the brand 12 years ago, and we are looking at different evolutions of it. I think AI is a very interesting angle. It won’t be able to replace human creativity, but it can support it in so many ways.
How is the new Blue Talisman Extrait de Parfum different from the original Blue Talisman Eau de Parfum?
There are notes in the extrait that don’t exist in the eau de parfum—in particular, the floral heart, with notes of jasmine and orange blossom. We also added notes such as vanilla bourbon, which gives it sweetness, and sandalwood, which provides a milky, woody embrace. The idea is to create this kaleidoscope of sensations: a perfume that is multifaceted, evoking very different sentiments, but all beautiful facets. It’s more sophisticated. Just as the Blue Talisman Eau de Parfum is a raw diamond, the Blue Talisman Extrait de Parfum is one that has been cut.
Who do you envision wearing this Extrait?
It speaks to people who are daring, creative, and appreciate elegance.
What’s an interest you have that most people would never guess?
I’m a fan of porcelain dolls. For a long time, I kept receiving them as gifts, and I now have a collection at home.
What is always in your handbag or hand luggage?
Blue Talisman! I also carry lip balm because I have very dry lips.
Do you have a favourite place to holiday?
I have a family house in the southwest of France. It’s really magical because you can see both the ocean and the mountains, so you get the best of France in one setting.
What’s your guilty-pleasure snack?
Tarte tatin. It’s like an apple tart but caramelised.
What is the best piece of advice you received?
Follow your intuition and never listen to people who say it’s impossible.
The Blue Talisman Extrait de Parfum is priced at RM1,510 for 50ml and RM2,150 for 100ml, exclusively available at Kens Apothecary.