Sushi Taka’s New Chef Revives The Authenticity of Edomae Sushi

In Malaysia, one of the best spots to savour authentic Edomae sushi is at Sushi Taka, a Michelin Selected restaurant located in The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur. With the arrival of a new vision, a fresh era of possibilities awakens. Formerly the head chef of the one‑Michelin‑starred Mizumi Macau, Chef Koji Ishiguro brings many years of experience, from traditional Edomae techniques to the refined execution of kaiseki.

Here, guests will notice that the menu opens with dishes designed to create a sense of warmth and comfort, showcasing a glimpse of Ishiguro’s expertise in kaiseki cuisine, which typically follows a graceful progression.

Kaiseki, however, isn’t the focus here. Among the opening appetisers, Ishiguro unveils his signature dish: steamed Japanese black abalone with liver sauce. Although Edomae is centred on sushi, the preparation of this dish is shaped by the same philosophy. The careful transformation of steaming brings out the best of the ingredient, as raw abalone tends to be tough and chewy. Paired with its umami‑rich liver sauce, this is a dangerously addictive dish.

Of the many Edomae methods, Ishiguro excels at ageing fish. The notion that fresh fish is better isn’t always true. In some cases, the opposite might hold more weight. His unique approach involves ageing fish in black sake and kombu, intensifying its flavour while eliminating fishy odours. Compared to naturally soft fish like salmon, this method is typical in tuna and white fish such as sea bream and golden‑eye snapper, which possess firmer muscles that benefit from this maturation process. Sometimes, time is the secret.

Another element that sets Ishiguro apart is his masterful handling of rice. At Sushi Taka, he showcases two types of rice: shiro shari (white vinegar rice) and aka shari (red vinegar rice). It’s the same idea as pairing red and white wines with appropriate meats.

Shiro shari carries mild acidity and subtle sweetness, which complements fresh fish, lean cuts, and shellfish. It also refers to the standard sushi rice that most diners are familiar with. In contrast, aka shari has a deeper colour, thanks to the red vinegar crafted from aged sake lees, and was invented partly out of necessity when rice supplies were limited during the Edo period. It is full‑bodied and more savoury, which masked the slight imperfections of rice at the time. These days, however, aka shari is prized for its ability to balance the more pronounced flavours of aged fish. Despite its revered history, this tradition is hard to come by in Malaysia due to its intensive labour, lengthy process, and meticulous temperature control, capturing Ishiguro’s devotion to upholding the heritage of Edomae.

While Ishiguro’s craft is built on tradition, his choices are driven by sustainability. As Edomae sushi emerged during an era of scarcity, it was necessary for chefs to carefully manage resources. More importantly, it is about honouring and cherishing the gifts of nature. Here, every part of the ingredients is utilised, creating sauces, side bites, or garnishes. The snow crab chawanmushi, for example, is made with stock from its shell, imparting a sweet, oceanic flavour that cannot be replicated by seasonings alone. Waste is minimised in the rice as well. The leftover rice layer formed at the bottom of the pot is turned into a toasty ice‑cream sandwich between seaweed and grilled mochi. Although innovative, it is unmistakably Edomae—respecting the provision and elevating simple ingredients into memorable dishes.