Introducing Castilla Y León, The Land Of Castles And Wonder

The region may not always light up social media algorithms, but join Robb Report Malaysia now as we take the Spanish steps less travelled, all in Castilla y León.

A Medley of Marvels

Although its capital these days is Valladolid, the capital of the Kingdom of Castile from the 10th to the 15th centuries was Burgos. The city is one of the largest and most popular in Castilla y León, as it is one of the main stops on the world-famous Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route; home to Burgos Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; and has a medieval quarter highlighted by Burgos Castle, offering panoramic views of the city. Not only is Burgos a natural starting point for your trip around Castilla y León, it is also the perfect home base for you to explore as much of the region as you can. Granted, there’s almost 95,000 sq km to cover, so a few trips will be needed and, as you’ll feel at the end of your first trip, desired.

Sixty years ago, legendary Italian director Sergio Leone made The Good, The Bad and The Ugly in Italy and Spain. His friends in filmmaking recommended a few Spanish areas out quite literally in the middle of nowhere, as they resembled the American desert settings for the iconic Spaghetti Western, starring Clint Eastwood. For the film’s climactic scene, Leone chose a plot of land in a valley near the small town of Santo Domingo de Silos to build the sprawling, haunting cemetery.

Over the years, the movie set was left abandoned, decayed, and almost forgotten, until a group of local enthusiasts decided to revive and rebuild Sad Hill Cemetery in 2015, so that it could be ready in time for the movie’s 50th anniversary. The crowdfunded project succeeded, thanks to donations from all over the world, including the band Metallica. Each donor’s name is written on a gravestone, so have fun recreating your best Eastwood scowl as well as searching for Metallica’s tombstone. Sad Hill Cemetery is just an hour’s drive from Burgos and is well worth a visit, even if you’ve never seen the seminal film. Contact The Cultural Association of Sad Hill for a guided tour; your guide will even teach you how to stage a proper quick-draw duel.

Just a 20-minute drive away, shift your attention from legendary Hollywood sets to natural wonders at Sabineres del Arlanza Nature Reserve, in which a short, simple stroll takes you through La Yecla Gorge. Surrounded by one of the largest and best preserved juniper forests in the world, the gorge follows the Arlanza River and is suitable for all ages, thanks to the well-maintained walking paths. Look down at the river waters, marvel at the rockface right beside you, and remember to look up, way, way up. Of the many flora and fauna to be observed in the nature reserve, humongous vultures are often seen patrolling the skies.

Finish your day with a visit to the Monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos, just a 10-minute drive from La Yecla Gorge. The Benedictine monastery, which dates back to the seventh century, is one of the most important in Castilla y León. Those of the faith will have plenty to digest, thanks to the centuries of carefully preserved artefacts, but even those not belonging to the religion should make some time to experience the Gregorian chants recited in the connecting church. Sung in Latin by monks from its associated monastery, the chants can be traced to the Middle Ages and are expressions of history vividly brought to life.

Imperial Treasures

In 1928, Paradores de Turismo was established as a tourism initiative across Spain, with the objectives of preserving and operating hotels in lovingly restored historic buildings in towns with plenty of culture and heritage (but perhaps not as many visitors as they should have). The public company has almost 100 properties under its umbrella, with one just a 30-minute drive away from Burgos. Parador de Lerma was built in the early 17th century by the Duke of Lerma, Francisco Gómez de Sandoval y Rojas, to be his ducal palace. Today, guests can live like a duke here in the thoughtfully preserved and tastefully appointed rooms, courtyard, and dining areas. Its elevated location on top of a hill, as well as its four corner towers with slate spires, make it as picturesque as the views of Lerma that guests enjoy from the rooms.

Lerma is entirely walkable and thoroughly enjoyable on foot; you need not even use the elevated passageways the Duke used in medieval times to go directly from his palace to the town’s various convents, monastery, or the Church of San Pedro. The organ in this church, dating back to 1616, is one of the oldest in Spain and was made by the royal organmaker Diego Quijano. Mere words don’t do it justice; it needs to be seen and heard to be fully experienced.

The Arlanza River runs along Lerma and through the heart of Castilla y León. You wouldn’t be wrong in calling it the lifeblood of the region, as the Arlanza Wine Route and the Arlanza Designation of Origin have both resulted in flourishing winemaking, wineries, and wine tourism. For instance, Bodegas Palace de Lerma is a family-run winery, with Ramiro García Arnáiz as the fourth-generation owner continuing the tradition for more than a century. Guests can organise a fun winemaking masterclass under the tutelage of Arnáiz, too. But if you’d just like to savour some delicious Spanish wine, start with the Palacio de Lerma Crianza, a classically elegant red, made of 100 per cent Tempranillo grapes. Other highlights include the fresh, smooth, and flavourful Aire Norte, as well as Barbudo, which is categorised as one of its “radical wines”.

Meanwhile, at the Monastery of Lerma, be sure to try its Joven red wine, also made of 100 per cent Tempranillo grapes. The monastery was inhabited by nuns from 1610 to 2016, and has now been modernised into a cultural, heritage, and events space. Thanks to its 10,000 sq m of enclosed land, weddings, parties, wine tastings, tours, and other private events can all be hosted and enjoyed at the monastery. In fact, its cooking workshop is a signature event, with up to 16 guests learning how to cook a stew the 16th-century way, using clay pots as it slowly simmers for five hours over an open fire. It pairs very well with the Monasterio Lerma Joven red wine and Burgos black pudding, which you can also learn how to prepare during the workshop. Yes, it will get bloody.

Living History

In the quaint town of Covarrubias, the Castilian spirit is alive and well. There are a lot of red caves in the surrounding areas (“cuevas rubias”), hence its name, and they were once used as a natural form of refrigeration or storage. However, many local citizens and businesses still put them to good use today, such as the Bodegas Covarrubias winery, which uses these centuries-old caves for its wine cellars. Tempranillo grapes are their varietal of choice, used in delicious signature wines such as the Viña Valdable Crianza (aged for 12 months in American oak barrels and a further 12 months in the bottle) and the Abadía De Covarrubias (aged for 24 months in oak barrels and a further 24 months in the bottle). The winery’s storefront is directly connected to the caves, and is also a short walk from the historic city centre where it seems that time has stood still.

The old town wall, stone floors, Gothic churches, visible timber frameworks in the arcade’s buildings, the Arch of the Archive of the Advancement of Castile (the town’s ancient entrance), the Plaza of Doña Urraca, the Tower of Fernán González, and a pleasant walking path by the Arlanza River, these are just some of the remnants of life in the Kingdom of Castile during the 16th century that you can immerse yourself in, savour, and enjoy in Covarrubias after just a 40-minute drive from Burgos. And, before you leave, book a table at Tiky Restaurant for a classically refined Spanish meal.

There’s just one more place we highly recommend you check out, which is a breathtaking way to end your (first) trip to Castilla y León. It’s somewhere that’s as stunningly gorgeous as it is historically significant and agriculturally important to Arlanza’s wine: Barrio de Bodegas de Baltanás, or the Baltanás Wine District, located just an hour’s drive from Burgos.

The first things that stand out the moment the barrio comes into view are the innumerable chimneys; these provide essential ventilation for the 374-or-so underground cellars, many of which date back to the 16th century. These cellars are further proof of Arlanza’s winemaking and cultural heritage and, remarkably, are still in use today for general storage or ageing wine, thanks to the ideal temperatures and conditions in the cellars. To experience every wonderful bit of the barrio, visit La Zarcera, which has everything visitors will want, all under one roof: a tavern, a restaurant, and a wine tourism centre. They’ll guide you through wine tastings, their very own cellar, and the best of local flavours and produce. The district’s nickname is also emblematic of Castilla y León, a place that utterly deserves your attention and is somewhere that changes you in a way that only Spain can—El Castillo.