Luxury has long been defined by lavishness, maximalism and flashy fashion. But now, as simplicity starts to reign supreme, new menswear labels are emerging with a shared, fresh focus on impeccable basics, evergreen classics and first-rate materials. The following four low-profile luxury menswear labels — each born as a second life for a fashion-industry veteran — evoke a modern, subdued elegance, and represent a new age in high-end fashion.
Following a four-year stint as the men’s design director for Thom Browne, the visionary Robert Childs branched out on his own to launch an expertly edited collection of menswear — at the heart of which are crisp, masculine silhouettes that often recall those of bygone eras. Each Childs piece, from monochromatic must-haves to more vibrant styles, is crafted with everyday use in mind in modern, breathable fabrics.
A traditionalist at heart and a boundary-pusher by nature, Paul Helbers is an undeniable force in fashion. After career-defining roles as the head of design for menswear at Maison Margiela and later Louis Vuitton, the Dutch designer embarked on a solo endeavour, debuting his eponymous label Helbers last year. The exclusive line — which includes staples like tailored clothing, knits, and athleisure — steers clear of obvious trends and instead centres around enduring styles reinterpreted for the modern man.
Envisioning menswear through a bolder, more contemporary lens is Deveaux. The young brand was launched to much acclaim in 2015 by Matt Breen of the beloved, yet short-lived, Carson Street Clothiers boutique in SoHo. The retailer-turned-designer’s vision was to create a line of made-in-America menswear that was both stylish and unpretentious — an undertaking that has been undeniably achieved by the NYC-based brand’s exceptional knits, shirts, trousers, and outerwear.