Hylandia by Shangri-La in Diqing, Tibet
A word of caution: Diqing will not a typical luxurious holiday make. Nestled 3,280m above sea level in the mountainous region of northwestern Yunnan, the Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture is as rugged as the people inhabiting them. But who needs perfectly paved paths and glittering stores when you have unmarked trails softened by nature’s verdant carpeting and weathered shops held together by the bond between seller and craftsman? This is after all, the real-world version of James Hilton’s “Lost Horizons”, so put aside your manufactured comforts and plunge headfirst into the lush culture and environment of this pristine paradise.
That said, the surroundings may be wild but your lodgings don’t have to be. In fact, Shangri-La Hotel’s newest development has pulled out all the stops for an exceptionally cushy stay right in the heart of Shangri-La city. Big chain hotels tend to eschew distinctiveness for recognisable, top-notch comfort, but the Hylandia by Shangri-La weaves in its cultural influences seamlessly while maintaining its five-star reputation. The large drum and prayer wheels located outside the premises, hundreds of Buddhist texts that line the wooden shelves, and copper decorations made by the locals all add to the meditative atmosphere of the hotel. And when you’re winded after a long day out (and at that altitude, you will be), there’s no better place to recharge than in their 187sq m Shangri-La suite – a four bedroom-haven with views of the garden, city and mountains.
If you’re willing to rough it out a little, consider touring the countryside with Caravane Liotard’s travelling tents. It was founded by Constantin de Slizewicz, a dapper Frenchman who fell in love with the city when he first arrived in 1999. Don’t expect roomy vehicles – stout Tibetan horses and your own two legs will be helping with the move between camping sites. If the pseudo-nomadic life isn’t for you, his Ferme Liotard package lets you camp near his home – built in the traditional Tibetan style complete with intricate carvings and liberal use of colour – and includes dinner in his lounge.
It’s easy to see why Slizewicz was so taken with the place once you’ve experienced all it has to offer first hand. Hylandia works closely with the locals to provide truly immersive experiences for its guests, bringing them to areas far out of TripAdvisor’s reach. One such hidden gem is Nixi, Diqing’s pottery village. The potters here require no wheel, and shape the reddish brown clay into perfect curves using only their hands, some rudimentary tools and generations of acquired wisdom. The pots/vases/gravy boats/ashtrays/decorative plates are then fired for about four hours in temperatures approaching 800 deg C, which gives them their characteristic black colour. Visitors can learn to make their own souvenirs or browse the professional wares while snacking on mountain walnuts and wild honey. Hylandia can also organise an outdoor barbecue in the village, where you can enjoy Nixi’s black pottery chicken as you admire the hard, stunning scenery.
Handcrafts are a big part of Diqing’s lifestyle and economy, and there’s more to be found in Dukezong Old Town. The 1,300-year-old town is the ideal place to take in Tibetan architecture and the authentic crafts they hold. Woven textiles and carpets, painted wood furnishings, stone carvings, bags, jewellery and even toys have all been painstakingly made by hand (usually by women) and profits from the sales are re-invested in the community.
The town is also home to a Thangka academy, where master Lobsang Khudup trains young monks in the art of Tibetan Buddhist painting and philosophy. These silk and cotton paintings are available for sale, but you may want to take some lessons yourself as he also offers free classes to tourists on weekdays.
Needless to say, there are numerous sites where one can visit to learn more about Tibetan Buddhism. Even if you’re not interested in the teachings specifically, places like the Songstam Monastery – the largest of its kind in the Yunnan province – can be appreciated from a purely aesthetic standpoint. It’s a sensorial playground of primary colours and gold, incense and sombre reverence, and truly a sight to behold from across the lake.
Diqing may not offer the kind of polished vacation you’re accustomed to, but if that’s exactly what you want to get away from, let the city’s warm citizens welcome you with genuine smiles and its rich heritage soothe your weary soul.
