Chopard ressurects one of the greatest names in horology
After a nine-year incubation period, Chopard revived the long forgotten house of Ferdinand Berthoud last September. Its first timepiece under its modern incarnation, the FB1 Chronometre, draws inspiration from the marine chronometres, pocket watches and regulators that the label’s talented namesake had once created. Measuring longitudes to within less than half a degree, Berthoud’s chronometers allowed France to compete with England for maritime dominance in the 18th century and earned him the official title of “Master Clockmaker to the King and the Navy” in 1753 in Paris under the reign of Louis XV.
A long-time admirer of Berthoud, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard and President of the new Chronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud, says: “Ferdinand Berthoud was an exceptional horological theoretician and the author of a number of reference works. But the most important aspect of all is undoubtedly his visionary spirit, since a large proportion of his works remain as timely and relevant as ever.”
When Scheufele first heard about plans to bring Berthoud back to life as just another brand selling ETA-powered timepieces, he decided to buy the rights to the name in 2006, and safeguard it until he felt he could do right by it. He proceeded to set up a separate team, hiring watchmakers and movement designers to create a well-defined approach that is distinct from Chopard’s, While Chronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud is part of the Chopard Group, the development, design and production of its watches originate from an autonomous creative process and are assembled in dedicated premises within the Chopard Manufacture. The only common link Chronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud shares with Chopard is Guy Bove, who is creative director for both brands and who provides Chronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud with access to the expertise of the Chopard Manufacture when required.
In tribute to the master watchmaker, the brand will only offer exceptional contemporary timepieces produced in extremely limited series rather than nostalgic commemorative models. Scheufele explains: “We have sought to transpose what Ferdinand Berthoud might have created if he were living now. The contemporary translation of his genius consists in drawing inspiration from his most remarkable accomplishments for our modern creations. These will bear reinterpreted features and evoke emblematic historical constructions.”
To create a watch that stays true to its legacy, Bove and the watchmakers at Chronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud meticulously studied the clocks, published documents and archival materials still existing. The fruit of their labour was the FB1, fully developed in Chopard’s manufacture in Fleurier, Switzerland, only a few kilometres away from Berthoud’s birthplace and a natural continuation of Berthoud’s work.
The complex one-minute tourbillon chronometre features a fuseé chain transmission regulation, which is commonly seen in 18th century marine chronometres. The ancient technology has been reinterpreted to provide constant force to the movement, compensating for variations in the torque of the mainspring as the watch unwinds. The watch is offered in a 44mm white or rose gold octagonal case with water-resistant sapphire crystal lateral portholes, inspired by the gimbal suspension system characteristic of the wooden boxes of Berthoud’s marine chronometers.
Entirely independently designed, developed and manufactured by Chronometrie Ferdinand Berthoud after almost three years of research and development, the original hand-wound COSC-certified movement with over 1,120 components, Calibre FB-T.FC, has the same pillar-type architecture that Berthoud favoured, and houses several patent-pending innovations. One is the direct-drive central seconds hand, which sits on, and turns with, a wheel that’s directly connected to the one minute tourbillon – and hence completes a rotation every minute. This mechanism can be observed through the elongated aperture in the centre of the dial.
The second innovation is the power reserve indicator, which uses an unusual cone design instead of the more common differential gear train. This cone rises and falls as the mainspring barrel turns and the watch unwinds, deflecting a lever that in turn, controls the position of the hand showing the remaining power reserve. Typical Berthoud design cues on the FB1 include the placement of hour markers between numerals, the style of the case bolts and the round counterweight on the seconds hands. Bove has also created a unique typeface for the timepiece, which is available in a limited edition of 50 pieces in each case metal.
