Tanjong Jara Resort and its unmistakably Malay vibe
The Malaysia that most are familiar with lies on the western coast of the peninsula, where centuries of trade along the Straits of Malacca have created an organic mish-mash, lively embracing facets of Malay, Chinese, Indian and other cultures. Beyond the Titiwangsa range that bisects that southernmost point of the Asian mainland is another Malaysia, one rooted deep in the Malay culture and one celebrated by YTL’s Tanjong Jara Resort in Dungun, Terengganu.
Mention a Thai- or Balinese-style resort, and the image is clear: silk cushions and clasped hands under tiered roofs with sharp finials terminating in decorative dragon lamyong in the former; candi bentar entrances representing a split Mount Meru leading to dark wood corridors and thatched roof balé verandas flanked by flowery penjor in the latter. Mention a Malay-style resort and the image is hazier. West coast Malaysian hotels usually veer colonial, Straits Chinese or contemporary in their styling, but Tanjong Jara Resort wholeheartedly embraces traditional Malay styles.
Spread across 31 hectares, the resort’s buildings are modelled after istanas –the elegant wooden palaces of Malaysian sultans. The low-rise building form is adapted here mainly in form of two-storey units, with the steep pitched gabled roofs, set across the sprawling grounds. Rooms are divided into ground units (Serambi) and top floor units (Bumbung), with the single storey Anjung suites offering more privacy and luxury. Traditional Malay hardwoods like cengal, meranti, belian and marbau are used throughout, forming not just floors and walls, but decorative elements like jerejak (window rails), kerawang (ventilation panels), meleh (eaves) and papan cantik (rafter boards). It is this dedication to emulating and preserving an ancient craft that won the resort the Aga Khan Award in 1981; more than 30 years later, that devotion still remains.
Every Saturday, the resorts hosts Kampung Sucimurni, an open air picnic that offers a glimpse into Malay village life. Between games of sepak takraw (kick volleyball) and congkak (Malaysian mancala), between servings of keropok lekur (deep-fried fish crackers) and the resident monkey plucking down fresh coconuts, it is a side of country life than even Malaysians may not be familiar with. Tanjong Jara Resort describes itself as ‘Unmistakably Malay’ and it is.
The Spa Village, to take another example, eschews any reference to Thailand or Bali, concentrating instead on lesser-known Malay practices. Focusing on the restorative properties of forest-gathered plants and herbs, a spa here begins with mandi bunga – a shower of seven ladles of water mixed with seven different flowers of seven different colours to purify the body. For her, the recommended treatment is Dandan Puteri Tujuh, a ritual for princesses; for him, Panji Alam or the Warrior’s Massage, to ease the muscles and soul of a hero.
At sunrise, guests are invited to indulge in the daily sucimurni stretching exercises, with the calisthenics varying based on the animal chakra of the day. Then it is off to breakfast, where the usual smorgasbord of options are interspaced with delicacies native to the East Coast – nasi dagang, rice double-steamed in coconut milk and fenugreek seeds, served with a creamy curry made from tuna, ubiquitous along this coast of Malaysia. In the evening, the restaurant – Di Atas Sungai, or On The River – eliminates menus, instead prompting a conversation between chef and client where ingredients are chosen and cooking methods recommended.
For a meal that is a little more decadent, private dining options are available on the beachside near the poolside Nelayan (Fisherman) restaurant, but the crowning glory has to be Dinner on the Rocks, where a personal chef whips up a custom menu on a rocky outcrop with nothing but the stars and the sound of lapping waves for company.
Excursions also take guests afield – into the local fish market with Chef Ann as a guide, along coastal roads on a bicycle with Captain Mokhtar, or into the wilderness of the Marang river – each unveiling a new aspect of Malay life. On this side of the peninsula, life is slower, carefree and more reverent. It may lack the flurry of activity and melange of worldly influences on the west coast, but that is sometimes just what the doctor ordered. Tanjong Jara Resort has been a continuous homage to this for over three decades, and being here feels like it should and will always continue to be.
