cutting edge
Peer through the window of 13 Savile Row in London, and you might catch a fleeting glimpse of master tailor Richard Anderson, hard at work on one of his exquisitely crafted suits. He opened Richard Anderson Ltd in 2001 with fellow Huntsman alumnus Brian Lishak, making it the first bespoke tailoring House to open on Savile Row in 50 years. Famed for his refined house style, which offers clean lines and a form-fitting, elongated silhouette, Anderson’s inspired approach towards tailoring has attracted numerous high-profile sartorialists, including Bryan Ferry, Sir Ian McKellen, and André Leon Talley. His newest book, Making the Cut, which showcases 25 classic menswear designs and examines the traditional craft of cutting a bespoke suit, will be released this month.
On his most important tailoring lesson
There never comes a point when you know it all. You’re always learning, and you’re only as good as your last suit.
On Savile Row’s core traditions
Savile Row has kept its name because of its heritage. The quality of the cut and the service offered on The Row is like nothing else and those to factors will, hopefully, never change.
On the most surprising trend to emerge from The Row
Fabrics have certainly become lighter over the last 10 to 15 years. When I started on The Row in 1982, fabrics generally weighed up to 10 or 11 ounces, but they now weigh a lot less. Modern, more daring trends are also making their mark more and more – that’s all down to the fact that the older members of the teams have been swayed by the younger generations coming into the trade.
On his favourite fabrics
My number one favourite would have to be navy and mohair wool worsted in an 11/12oz for a crisp, clean line. Secondly, grey flannel in 14.15oz, as it’s full of old style, character, and glamour. Thirdly, our own selection of house tweeds – they are beautiful to handle and rich in colour.
On the subtle nuances of his house style
Straight, clean lines to lapels and front edges are important. We also incorporate high arm holes to allow for movement: this means you get a long side seam, which makes the fit look slimmer. We aim to make the customer look their best by enhancing the features that are going to best flatter their appearance.
On incorporating tech elements into his suits
The mobile phone pocket used to be standard – now, virtually every coat we make will have a ticket pocket in either right or left facing to accommodate customers’ individual phone sizes.
On the most memorable suit he’s encountered
Fiat Head Gianni Agnelli’s single-breasted grey flannel coat and trousers, cut by Colin Hammock circa 1990. Both suit and subject were in perfect harmony.
On the best garment a woman can wear
A single-breasted black velvet blazer or jacket.
On his go-to fragrance
Escentric 01 by Escentric Molecules.
On his greatest temptation
Barolo wine.
On the most treasured items from his wardrobe
A double-breasted brown tweed overcoat from Huntsman, which was cut by my original mentor Brian Hall, circa 1985; a single-breasted French blue lightweight wool worsted coat and trousers; and a single-breasted medium grey worsted coat and trousers.
On his luxury destinations of choice
I really enjoy visiting The Carlyle in New York and The Landmark, Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong. They’re both hotels that we visit during our US and Hong Kong trunk shows, which take place throughout the year.
