a walk to remember
As bridges go, this one isn’t particularly impressive. From the seat of my car – gratefully provided by Rosie Holidays Fiji, a name that everyone in Fiji knows – I’d estimated that the wooden structure is no more three metres long. The narrow river of water that disconnects Fiji’s main island of Viti Levu from Denarau island is actually a strait; though you could mistake it for a stream, it still separates the two islands physically – and visually as well. Lush trees trim the road, while on my left is the Denarau Golf & Racquet Club where one of Fiji’s famous sons – golfer Vijay Singh – got his start. Impressive mansions, the sort that one would associate with Crazy Rich Asians, are protected behind watchful sentries of thick hedgerows. Think less Port Dickson, and more Singapore’s Sentosa Cove.
Developed as a private island in the 1970s, when well-heeled Americans first began discovering the joys of Fiji, Denarau has been created to have a very different vibe from the vibrant town of Nadi not five minutes away. Its proximity to Nadi International Airport – the main gateway into Fiji – is convenience at its best; only 30 minutes separates a guest between airplane touch down and digging their toes in golden sand. A string of sprawling luxury resorts hug Denarau’s long coastline, including the Radisson Blu, Westin, Sofitel and – my happy home for two glorious sun-kissed days – the Hilton Fiji Beach Resort and Spa.
Occupying the tip of the Denarau Peninsula, geography dictates that the resort had to be designed horizontally to fit into the narrower slice of land. While that does prevent the presence of a large, imposing lobby, it has a more discernible benefit – almost all of the Hilton Fiji’s 271 rooms and suites come with a view of the Pacific, uninterrupted by any landmasses, natural or man-made. And because the resort faces north, guests can enjoy a full sweep of the tropical sun, from a beachside breakfast at Nuku Restaurant, frolicking in two main swimming pools at noon or taking a leisurely (or perhaps romantic) stroll over the Hilton Fiji’s 1.5km coastline at sunset.
Walking is always an option, but those who prefer pace or those with families, can hop onto one of the resort’s two buggies that constantly run east to west and back, picking up and dropping off passengers to their rooms and the reception. Or perhaps to The Spa, where a pampering is in order after a long day of relaxing. Venturing outside the resort doesn’t require much legwork either; the Denarau Bula Bus service connects the Hilton with all the resorts and other parts of the island, including the retail and restaurant cluster at Denarau Port, which is also the departure point for trips to Fiji’s outer islands. Exploration is encouraged, but I find myself inextricably gravitating back to the Hilton Fiji. Perhaps its the promise of the firm, yet yielding bed. Or a long, hot shower. Or perhaps I’m just hungry.
There is the option of hosting an Aussie-style barbeque at my room. It’s a nod to Fiji’s proximity to Australia and New Zealand that BBQ grills are ever present on the sea-facing verandas of rooms (or if not, they can be on request). It’s a tempting idea, but vacation rules dictate that I let other, more skilled people do the work. That would include the army of chefs at Nuku, who serve up an international spread for breakfast, lunch and dinner, or heading back to familiar Asian flavours Maravu, clustered together with Nuku around the main pool area. There’s also the grab-and-go salad-and-sandwich option at The Deli, but my time is limited and my expectations high, so I head to Koro at the resort’s adults-only area. Located towards the eastern end of peninsula, clustered together with the resort’s larger suites and villas, Koro means ‘village’ in Fijian and has a languid, loungey vibe with its own pool that illuminates with Ibiza beats and neon colours at night. This being an island, the menu is predictably focused on seafood, served in a whole range of ways – from tempura-battered to grilled, fried to almost raw in Kokoda, the Fijian version of ceviche. This being Fiji, coconut is also a focus, whether as a marinade, condiment or to lend Koro’s extensive cocktail selection a tropical vibe. For those that prefer some quiet in the morning, breakfast is also served here, for adults only.
This may not be a slice of true Fijian life – the nature of a private island and a luxury resort lends itself to a more discerning clientele group that may not appreciate rustic aspects of life – but true Fijian hospitality is ever-present here. I’ve heard many joyous calls of ‘Bula!’ and seen many broad grins in my short time at the Hilton Fiji Beach Resort and Spa. I can’t help but smile back and add my ‘Bula!’ to the cheerful chorus echoing around, and for a naturally reticent person, that is a major achievement. There’s magic in the air in Fiji, and that potion is particularly potent here at the Hilton Fiji.
Hilton Fiji Beach Resort and Spa
