Edinburgh Euphoria
One is suitably impressed when greeted with the historic facade of the 185-year old Lady Glenorchy Church – which houses The Glasshouse Edinburgh in the present day. The rebuilding of this landmark, which was undertaken at the turn of the millennium, had juxtaposed a striking modern glass roof to the church’s Gothic front, a microcosm of the city where old and new are celebrated side-by side.
As part of The Elite Whisky experience (£2,500, or RM13,453, for two guests and two nights), my stay begins with at the Auchentoshan Suite – the largest and most lavish of the 77-room property’s accommodations boasting floor-to–ceiling windows and the crisp modern décor. Welcome drams of Auchentoshan 12 – in keeping with the suite’s name, are a precursor of things to come.
Later that evening, Ronnie Berrie joins the dining party as we savour a delectable seven-course dinner, paired with whisky, of course. Ronnie is a Keeper of the Quaich – a recognition of outstanding achievement awarded to those who work with, and spread the good word on whisky.
Berrie takes us through the exquisite whisky and local produce pairings. The amuse-bouche is served with the 12-year Glenkinchie, later the Corned Beef Brisket and West Coast Black Pudding is paired with the Macallan Gold, followed by a Monkey Shoulder sorbet, before we move on to border lamb spiced by the peat and smoke of the Lagavulin 16.
The next morning brings full Scottish breakfasts in bed, with the sunlight streaming in, heralding the day to come. Stepping out, it would seem as if the city unfurls at The Glasshouse’s doorstep. To the left the Old Town, ahead the new town, with Calton Hill and Holyrood Park in the east – the energy is captivating. Soon, the more bucolic nature of the Scottish countryside takes over as we make our way 40 miles northwest towards the banks of the River Teith, where the Deanston Distillery stands.
Deanston is one of the small handful of distilleries still owned by Scots, and one may glean plenty of useful insights into the world of Scotch whisky through the personal tours conducted by Berrie regales with the history behind the 53-year old whisky brand, with a sampling of highland single malts, still handmade by a team of local craftsmen. Here they go by experience and intrinsic feel; and eschew computers.
Back at The Glasshouse, The Snug offers a cosy setting to unwind. The bar and lounge stocks a collection of over 180 different expressions of whiskies, an ideal complement to the haggis bon bons and highland cattle and venison burgers.