Watchmakers can feel 80s nostalgia, too, apparently. Breitling has just unveiled a bold new Super Chronomat collection inspired by the Frecce Tricolori watch the brand created for the Italian Air Force’s aerobatic fleet back in 1983. The updated five-piece series includes a multi-coluored trio of B01 44 styles and two 44 Four-Year Calendar models.
True to the original Chronomat, which debuted in 1984, the rider tabs on each model protect the sapphire crystal. The tabs at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock are also interchangeable, so collectors can use them for countdowns or otherwise. With a case measuring 44 millimetres, the pieces feature a stainless-steel bezel with a ceramic insert—a first for the brand on a Chronomat. You also have the choice of selecting a Rouleaux-inspired rubber strap or Breitling’s iconic metal strap with a butterfly clasp for variety. The new edition is created with state-of-the-art injection molding techniques and comes in three distinct textures: matte, slick or woven detailing.
The Super Chronomat B01 44 models come in three variants. Two are encased in stainless steel with blue or black dial-and-bezel combinations. The third is a rich brown dial-and-bezel combination with a case in 18 karat red gold. All feature contrasting silver chronograph counters powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, which provides about 70 hours of power reserve. They’re also water-resistant up to 200 metres. As a bonus, you can also opt for a B01 44 with a black dial and a Universal Time Coordinated-module embedded in a Rouleaux bracelet. A Breitling feature dating back to the 1980s, the UTC module allows wearers track a second time zone.
Alternatively, the Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar styles have a semi-perpetual calendar mechanism that needs adjusting just once every leap year—or every 1461 days. This model is available in a black dial with tone-on-tone chronograph counters, a stainless-steel bezel with a black ceramic bezel insert and 18 karat red gold elements. There’s also a blue dial option that features tone-on-tone chronograph counters and a bezel in 18 karat red gold with a blue ceramic insert. Both are water-resistant up to 100 meters and powered by the Breitling Caliber 19, a COSC-certified chronograph movement with a semi-perpetual calendar with day, date, month, and moon phase indicators.
Back in 1984, Breitling’s release of the Chronomat marked a comeback of sorts for mechanical Swiss timepieces after quartz watches had dominated the market throughout the 70s. With its bold proportions, the model was able to upstage slimmer quartz models. “This watch is tough enough for every pursuit, but it won’t get in the way of your sense of style,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern.
The Breitling Super Chronomat B01 44 models start at RM39,300 in stainless steel and RM102,800 in 18K red gold. MSRP for the Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar begins at RM63,800. You can all the details at the wachmaker’s website.
Previously published on Robb Report.
