Omega rolled out two new colour-infused Speedmaster models this week, including a Speedmaster ’57 that debuts a new manual-wound movement and a Moonwatch that showcases Moonshine, Omega’s proprietary gold alloy.
Omega’s Speedmaster ’57 is now slimmer, with a smaller case size—a feature that expands the universe of Speedy fans to include more female collectors or men looking for a more authentically-vintage size. The new Co-Axial caliber 9906 is one of the smallest chronograph movements on the market, thus allowing for a slightly scaled-down case that measures 40.5 x 12.99, compared to the Speedmaster Moonwatch 3861, which is 42 mm x 13.58 mm thick. Omega has also incorporated some colour into the new model—a growing trend in watches this year that is experiencing plenty of hype. Dial options include blue, green, burgundy or black, with matching straps or a steel bracelet.
The movement has two barrels for a 60-hour power reserve, a silicon balance spring for less friction, low maintenance and better performance, and METAS certification. The Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology is a measurement testing lab that runs the watches through a series of tough trials to meet standards that exceed the requirements of the Swiss Chronometry lab known as COSC. The watches require accuracy to within 0 to +5 seconds per day, compared to -4/+6 for COSC, and must be magnetic-resistant to 15,000 gauss. Omega attaches a five-year warranty to the watch.
The dial of this Speedmaster ’57 has the model’s classic broad arrow hands, treated with white Super-LumiNova that glows green in the dark, as per vintage versions. Another classic Omega Speedmaster touch is the tachymeter scale with the signature “Dot Over Ninety” design—the dot on the index is placed above the 90 on the tachymeter scale, as per vintage models, which are highly collectible. The design changed in 1969 when Omega started to place the dot next to the 90.
The bezel has a stainless steel insert that’s engraved and then coloured in with a laser treatment. The low-profile bracelet adds to the watch’s sense of slimness and wearability. As a bonus, it is equipped with Omega’s comfort release adjustment system, which means it can be adjusted by 2.20 mm, in two positions. The caseback is open and decorated on the back plate with Omega’s signature arabesque Côtes de Genève finish.
The Speedmaster Moonwatch is available for the first time in Moonshine gold, Omega’s proprietary hue of yellow gold created in 2019. All 18-karat gold is alloyed with other materials to improve the hardness and soften the colour. In addition to a dash of copper and a touch of silver this one is alloyed with a shot of palladium to make it stronger, more fade-resistant and a little paler than traditional yellow gold. The Moonwatch is already available in Sedna gold, Omega’s 18-karat rose gold alloy, an alloy with similar ingredients but a little heavier on copper.
There are two dial colours: gold and green, both of which look amazing with the soft yellow gold of the bracelet and case. The gold dial is matched by a black ceramic bezel ring and blackened subdials. The PVD green coated dial version has a green ceramic bezel and gold-coloured markings to match the case and bracelet. Each comes with a polished Moonshine gold bracelet or black rubber strap with a lunar surface texture on the back. The movement, caliber 3861, is also METAS certified, with a 50-hour power reserve.
Previously published on Robb Report.
