When you think of Ulysse Nardin, you most certainly conjure up an image of a bold watch. Perhaps you picture an oversized dive model drawing from the brand’s tenured history of marine chronometers or an all-black iteration of their iconic Freak housing a silicium escapement—bold from the inside out. At this year’s Geneva Watch Days, Ulysse Nardin is taking its bold aesthetic to a new level by jumping on the rainbow bandwagon with two models – the Blast Tourbillon Rainbow and the Lady Diver Rainbow – boasting full-spectrum colour.
Enter the Blast Tourbillon Rainbow, combining the gem setting of the Sparkling Blast and the tourbillon technology of the original Blast Tourbillon. Like the debut Blast, the new Rainbow is instantly recognisable for its skeleton “X” dial, hefty 45mm case, and micro-rotor in platinum placed at 12 o’clock. The look is complete with a black DLC titanium case and the option of a waterproof velvet rubber strap or a black alligator strap. Ultimately, this all-black canvas creates the perfect backdrop for a total of 50 ruby and sapphire baguettes to pop on the bezel and indexes. Inside, you’ll find the UN-172 calibre movement with the brand’s legendary silicium technology extending to the escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring.
While silicon has become increasingly prevalent in watchmaking in the last two decades, Ulysse Nardin was one of the first to employ the material in its revolutionary Freak model in 2001. They began by using it in place of steel for two escapement wheels. With the UN-172, an automatic tourbillon derived from the manually wound UN-171, the use of silicon (which the company refers to as silicium) extends beyond the escapement wheel and to the anchor and balance spring. The result is the brand’s first automatic skeleton movement with a tourbillon function.
Like silicon, the rainbow colour scheme has also become increasingly prevalent in watchmaking in recent years. What was once a polarizing novelty in models like the Rolex Daytona, whose rainbow roots extend back to the 80s, is now employed by even the world’s most prestigious watchmakers. In the past few years in particular, it’s become clear rainbow watches are more than a passing trend. So it comes as no surprise that Ulysse Nardin, a brand known for its daring aesthetic, would be among those making rainbow a part of their collection.
In addition to the Blast Tourbillon Rainbow, Ulysse Nardin builds on its ladies’ line while sticking to the rainbow theme with the Lady Diver Rainbow. Offered in black or white, each adorned with 40 stones set on the bezel, this 39mm sport watch is available in a limited run of 300 pieces at a price of US$13,600 (just over RM61,000). The Blast Tourbillon Rainbow is even more exclusive with a limited run of just 50 pieces at a price of US$89,700 (about RM402,000).
Previously published on Robb Report.
