In a crowded field of sports-chic watches, Bell & Ross managed to find a niche on the strength of the BR-05 collection, which launched in 2019. A more modern and sophisticated take on the brand’s aviation instrument-inspired aesthetic, and offered in an option of integrated bracelet, it rapidly became an important pillar for the French watchmaker. Enter now the BR-X5, an evolution of that success. Its case is slightly larger, at 41mm across and 12.8mm thick, for a stronger wrist presence – though the hollows of the crown guard and lugs do reduce and lend it a certain lightness and airiness, a consequence of its sandwich construction. The rounded square bezel with visible screws remains as a hallmark. The case primarily has a brushed finish, but plenty of polished facets for contrast – most noticeably on the chamfer around the bezel. The bezel also has a rubber ring separating it from the rest of the case, serving as a subtle visual element. It is water resistant to 100m.
The dial is something different too. Gone are the 6-9-12 Arabic numeral markers. Instead, the dominant visual components are the power reserve indicator sub-dial at 9 o’clock, and the altimeter-inspired elongated date window at 3 o’clock.
Inside, the movement is also a milestone for Bell & Ross. A collaboration with Kenissi – a manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland that is known for supplying Tudor, Breitling, and Chanel – resulted in Calibre BR-CAL .323. Sporting a 70-hour power reserve, it is a COSC-certified movement that propels the brand into new levels of timekeeping precision and reliability – backed-up by a five-year warranty that is also new ground for the brand.
The BR-X5 is available in two options of sunray-finished dial: black for the traditionalists, and ice blue for those wanting something trendier and more playful. Both are also available with either a steel bracelet, or colour-matched rubber strap.
