Three Years In: The Evolution of Chim by Chef Noom
Chim by Chef Noom retains its one Michelin star for the third year as chef proprietor Noom, head chef Willy Wee, as well as partners Rilynn Yong and James Kerk continue to redefine Thai fine dining through a shared culinary vision.
This year, Thai fine dining establishment Chim by Chef Noom celebrates its third anniversary and its third consecutive year of being awarded one Michelin star in the Michelin Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2027. But beyond the glitz and the awards, Noom (Thaninthorn Chantrawan), its founder and chef proprietor, is intent on continuing to push his interpretation of Thai cuisine and raising the kitchen’s standards.
After high school, Noom headed to London to cultivate his craft overseas, accumulating 14 years of experience in various world-renowned restaurants, including Sketch, Zuma, and Gordon Ramsay’s The Boxwood Café, before returning home and emerging as a victor of Iron Chef Thailand, which catapulted him to stardom. In 2017, he established Chim by Siam Wisdom, which has retained its Michelin star for nine consecutive years.
In 2024, Noom brought his cuisine south to Kuala Lumpur with the opening of Chim by Chef Noom. Together with husband-and-wife duo Rilynn Yong and James Kerk, as well as head chef Willy Wee, the quartet work together on menu planning, quality control, and brand alignment. Bringing different strengths to the table (quite literally) but united by one shared ambition, their collective efforts earned the restaurant its first Michelin star in just eight months.
“When Thai cuisine is discussed on the global culinary stage, dishes such as Tom Yum Goong and Pad Thai often come to mind. However, I want our guests to discover the many other dishes that showcase the different facets of Thai cuisine. I hope to make Malaysian diners more familiar with, and appreciative of, this diversity,” Noom explains.
From Storylines to the Plate
Noom adds, “That’s why we call it Chim by Chef Noom, as chim (ชิม) means ‘to taste in Thai. I wanted to give the restaurant a stronger sense of identity, one that reflects my own culinary character and interpretation. Our aim is to elevate Thai cuisine and offer a fresh perspective on it, rather than simply serving familiar, traditional dishes. There are Thai restaurants all over the world, so what makes people choose Chim by Chef Noom? Ultimately, we want guests to leave satisfied, having enjoyed something new and different.”
Noom has exhibited his inventive approach by reinterpreting traditional Thai recipes, as well as incorporating forgotten culinary traditions, unexpected ingredients, and contemporary techniques. The defining expression of his culinary philosophy is The Lost Recipe, or Tom Yum Plachon Bo-Larn, discovered by Noom through historical research at the National Library of Thailand. The recipe dates back 200 years to the reign of King Rama II and is said to have been crafted for him when he lost his appetite.
Kerk says, “We typically change our menu three to four times a year, depending on the seasons and the creative direction we want to explore. We start by choosing a theme or storyline, which gives the chefs a framework to develop the cuisine.
“One example was Himmapan, inspired by a mythical forest in Thai folklore inhabited by fairies, mystical creatures, and deities. We built the menu around four elements: the mountains, rivers, sea, and forest. From there, the chefs explored ingredients found in both Malaysia and Thailand, bringing them together in a contemporary interpretation of Thai cuisine, with each dish reflecting the storyline,” he adds.
A Collective Pursuit of Excellence
On a day-to-day basis, Noom works closely with Wee on menu development and ensuring the restaurant consistently upholds its standards. Noom chuckles, “I talk to him more often than I talk to my wife. When ideas pop up in my brain, I call him, and we always combine our concepts.”
Wee is also responsible for translating their creative vision into dishes that the kitchen team can execute consistently. He shares, “While recipes are important, I always remind my team not to focus on them alone. Teamwork, training, and clear communication are equally essential. I also relay Noom’s instructions to the team, while conducting regular training and R&D to ensure we achieve the best possible results.”
“Exposure from the Michelin Guide has helped us tremendously in terms of awareness from foreign diners, who come in from all over Europe and Asia. We appreciate this recognition, but naturally, there is also an increase in customer expectations in terms of cuisine, the service, and the environment,” Yong muses.
Kerk reflects, “We had plans to expand into the Philippines, but given the current economic uncertainty, we’ve decided to focus on our existing operations. Sustainability comes first, and any expansion must make business sense. We’ll reassess the market in 2027, but remain open to the right partnership, whether in the Philippines or elsewhere.”
“Of course, our goal for 2027 is to earn two Michelin stars, but there is no set formula. The chefs will focus on what goes on the plate, while we do our best to uphold the standards of management and service,” says Noom.
Images shot on location at the One Michelin Key luxury boutique heritage hotel Cheong Fatt Tze – The Qing Suites. A collection of thirteen suites and a TCM-focused (Traditional Chinese Medicine) spa, it sits within an annexe of the iconic Blue Mansion in George Town, Penang.
Photography by Norlman Lo
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