One of Omega‘s most iconic watches is finally getting the two-tone treatment.
The Speedmaster Moonwatch chronograph has long inhabited an exalted place as the modern iteration of the watch NASA issued to astronauts back in the 1960s. But Omega hasn’t kept this model down to Earth in any sense of the phrase: Omega has rendered the Moonwatch in solid gold. It has upgraded the manually wound caliber 3861 as a METAS-certified chronometer. And Omega even reissued the original caliber 321 movement (no small feat) inside a platinum version of the Moonwatch. In retrospect, it seems as if these two new two-tone models are late to launch.
These are most certainly not the first two-tone Speedmasters (a number of references litter the pre-owned market), but it is the first time the modern Speedmaster Moonwatch has been offered in bi-colour metals. At 42 mm, the two new versions use either Moonshine Gold (yellow) or Sedna Gold (red) in the classic two-tone configuration with stainless steel (price RM86,650).
For those who have not seen the Sedna Gold in person, it renders accurately in digital images (unlike so many pink and red gold mixtures). You can expect a deeper red gold, indicating the higher copper content of the formula. Moonshine Gold is a rich yellow gold, not super saturated, but when held next to more common yellow gold alloys, it appears richer. Both golds are quite lovely, and both have become signatures for Omega in recent years.
These gold colors obviously matter a great deal for these models, and the alloys lend each offering a rather distinctive look. These differences are emphasised by the dial configurations, with the Sedna Gold model using a classic “panda” configuration with black sub-dials, and the Moonshine Gold model offering a far airier visage with a silver dial and yellow gold sub-dials. To my eye, the two models are equally compelling, but I might be drawn to the Senda Gold version for both its uniqueness as a two-tone model and for offering a salmon (or gilded) dial. Salmon chronographs have long been creations of high horology (Patek reference 130s and Vacheron 4072s come to mind), and there is something quite elevated about a Speedmaster with a pink gilded dial.
Intriguingly, these are the first Moonwatch Speedies to use Omega’s Ceragold for the bezel insert. Other Moonwatch models use a traditional aluminum bezel insert as found on the original Speedmasters, but here we have scratch-proof black ceramic with Ceragold printing. It’s an upgrade of sorts, one that is in keeping with these elevated two-tone models, but perhaps would be less appropriate on the full stainless models. We will keep an eye out for this bezel upgrade across the Moonwatch line.
The movement, caliber 3861, is on full view behind the clear case-back window. This manually wound mechanism is a descendant of the original caliber 321, and the finishing and precision are impressive—as is always the case when Omega showcases their movements through clear crystals.
Previously published on Robb Report USA
Photography: Omega
