In 2001, imagining a watch with no crown, no hands and no dial would’ve been laughable. Yet, not only did Ulysee Nardin debut the Freak that year with none of those features, the convention-defying timepiece was also the first mechanical watch to have silicon escapement wheels. Ever since, the independent manufacture has filed more than 20 patents for the Freak series, while last year’s Freak One won the Iconic Watch Prize at the Oscars of watchmaking, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. “Clearly, between the first version and the existing one, there’s been a lot of breakthroughs,” says Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin. “The fact that we were also able to make the watch automatic for the first time (with the Grinder in the Freak Vision in 2018) was a major innovation and game changer. I think we can continue in the same line—keeping the same strategy of innovating and bringing a lot of technical prowess, but also showcasing amazing design.”
Pruniaux, also the CEO of Girard-Perregaux, was in Kuala Lumpur recently to introduce this year’s Freak S Nomad to local enthusiasts. The timepiece’s showstopping feature is its Calibre UN-251 Manufacture movement, a flying carousel that rotates hourly on its own axis. It has two oscillators with silicon balance wheels inclined at 20°, as well as escapements treated with the manufacture’s signature DIAMonSIL. It’s also automatic, powered by Ulysse Nardin’s patented Grinder winding system, and has a 72-hour power reserve.
The 45mm Freak S Nomad (RM676,000) is limited to 99 pieces and boasts an hour disc, behind the movement, with a diamond guilloché pattern finished in sand-coloured CVD. Each disc is produced by hand one at a time, which requires the artisan to perform 240 continuous movements in three hours—without breaks. “My favourite aspect of the Freak S Nomad is the contrast between the complexity of the movement with a very traditional hour disc. It’s an interesting analogy with what the brand stands for—a very strong base in the past, and another one in the future,” Pruniaux says. “And it also reflects one of the philosophies of Ulysse Nardin, which is the wearability of our watches. It’s a watch that can be worn every day.”
Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux have effectively been independent since 2022. How has this independence for you been so far?
It’s been a very easy transition. I’ve always had the willingness to be an entrepreneur at some point. I was also lucky to work in some groups that gave a lot of autonomy to their CEOs, including Kering. I think the main difference would be having a long-term view back then, but now our view is even longer term. We’re already thinking about product launch beyond 2030.
You’ve been CEO of both manufactures since late 2017. How has it been for you so far?
I couldn’t have expected a more fulfilling job—as simple as that. I’m fortunate to look after two of the most innovative and exciting luxury brands ever. And I’m not only talking about watch brands. Whether it’s the watchmakers, developers, sales and marketing team, the whole company—everyone is very much aligned and driven by a belief in the brands’ promise. For me, by far, it’s my best experience ever.
How would you describe your style of leadership?
I still learn at my job every day. Obviously, for most of the cases, I should be able to bring some solutions or some parts of it. But I continue to learn and evolve. Today, I’m making some decisions I wouldn’t have made just a couple of years ago.
When it comes to others, I try to be generous in my advice. I believe that when you express things, including your failures, you actually learn about yourself. Some believe that by holding in information you’re actually in power—I’d rather think the opposite. If you share information, you’re forced to seek for more information.
How do you deal with failures or regrets?
I would be lying if I told you I don’t have any regrets. But regrets are a fantastic driver to progress, to continue learning, improving and ensuring that I won’t have the same regrets twice.
What does luxury truly mean to you?
True luxury, whether it’s a service or a product, is something you use. I don’t consider luxury an investment. It’s first and foremost a product you’re going to use. And, by using it, it should also meet a need. The purpose of luxury is in the expression—the product materialises a creativity that is enriched by a unique manufacturing process. And it has a soul.
If you could learn a new skill, what would it be?
I’d learn to type very rapidly. Very often, my mind is much faster than I type. I’d be able to express things much better.
How do you find calm?
Silence, loneliness and sport.
What is your sleep routine?
Not good! You don’t want to know. I can’t advise anyone on this.
What is always in your hand luggage?
Running shoes and a pair of shorts.
What’s your most treasured possession?
It’s a small medallion my mum gave me when I was 19 and started to travel on my own.
What’s a song you’re currently listening to?
All The Unknown by the Grandbrothers, as well as the Paper Planes (Homeland Security Remixes) EP by MIA.
How would you like to be remembered when your time on earth is up?
Someone who was relentlessly in search of self-improvement.
