The Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID (RM461,700) is a rare innovation of timepiece luminescence. This subject is something that goes back to the roots of the Italian watchmaker, which built its early reputation on the development of new luminous materials for watch dials—ones that would end up in watches meant for the Italian Navy. The Radiomir and Luminor collections are named for two of these materials, patented by Panerai in 1916 and 1949, respectively.
The Elux LAB-ID puts a 21st-century spin on things, courtesy of the brand’s R&D department, Laboratorio di Idee. This is the department that created the LAB-ID Luminor Carbotech PAM700 in 2017, which has a 50-year guarantee, thanks to the minimal lubrication requirements of its movement; the LAB-ID Luminor PAM01700 of 2020, which debuted a new generation of Super-LumiNova and had a 70-year guarantee; and 2021’s Submersible eLAB-ID PAM1225, which was made from 98.6 per cent recycled materials, the most ever in a watch. The ‘Elux’ moniker is also an old one—in 1966, Panerai patented it as a lightning panel technology that was exceptionally robust and efficient, and was also used in military applications.
The crux of the new Elux LAB-ID is a set of 60 LEDs that illuminate various elements such as hands, hour markers, power reserve indicator, and even the bezel. These LEDs are mainspring-powered, just like any mechanical watch. Producing light takes a lot of energy compared with timekeeping, however, and as a result, calibre P.9010/EL has six barrels—four of which are dedicated to the lighting system alone. These four mainsprings activate a microgenerator that converts their stored potential into electrical energy. Despite the lack of active electronics, a smart system is in place that activates only the 15 most relevant LEDs at any one time, increasing efficiency. The total power reserve for the lighting is 30 minutes—an incredible feat for something without batteries.
The lighting system is activated via the protected pusher at eight o’clock. A lighting power indicator is found on the dial at six o’clock. For timing purposes, the self-winding calibre has a three-day power reserve, while the case is in a dark blue Ti-Ceramitech—Panerai’s proprietary ceramised titanium material. This forms one of four patent or patent-pending applications of the watch, the others being for parts of the lighting system and its protected pusher system. The watch also has an impressive 500m water resistance—living up to the Submersible collection’s reputation for toughness.
The Elux LAB-ID is limited to 150 pieces, and one consequence of all this technology is its considerable size—it is 49mm in diameter, and reportedly more than 20mm in thickness, making it a statement of wrist presence as well as innovation. That is the trade-off required to have a literal powerhouse on the wrist.