In Malaysia, the love for fusion cuisine is ever-present, as our diverse cultural influences naturally blend. However, there are some cuisines that remain steadfast in their dedication to tradition and authenticity, a sentiment particularly evident in Italian cooking and French patisserie. Japan, too, stands among those revered for honouring its cultural identity, placing deep respect on the beauty of seasonal produce and the preservation of natural flavours. ‘Fusion’ is just a term that rarely finds its place when describing Japan’s cuisine.
“But did you know some of Japan’s most well-known dishes were inspired by other cultures?” said chef Makoto Saito, executive owner of Sushi Hibiki. “Tempura was from the Portuguese, gyoza from China, and Japanese curry was inspired by India.” Although Japan remains deeply committed to tradition, it has also shown remarkable adaptability in taking global influences and transforming them into something uniquely Japanese.
Enter Chef Hiroshi Yamanobe, the esteemed owner-chef of Ginza Yamanobe Edo Chuka in Tokyo, a one-Michelin-starred establishment that has held its prestigious accolade for five consecutive years. Renowned for his mastery of Japanese-Chinese cuisine, chef Yamanobe joined chef Saito for Volume 25 of Echo In The Night, a distinguished series of chef collaborations hosted by Sushi Hibiki in Kuala Lumpur. When asked about the profound influence of Chinese cuisine on his work, chef Yamanobe’s answer was refreshingly straightforward. “I love Chinese cuisine,” he said. “It’s very dynamic, with its bold spices and aromas.”
His approach to incorporating Chinese influences could be seen in the subtle yet impactful changes he made to typically Japanese dishes. Take his Shime Saba (cured mackerel) sushi, for instance, where the fish was marinated in Chinese vinegar, which has a deeper, malty undertone compared to the gentle tang of Japanese vinegar. This marinade imparted a golden hue to the fish, invoking the Chinese saying ‘ong’, symbolising good fortune.
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The most important thing to note about chef Yamanobe is his firm belief in the philosophy of negi wa chomiryo—spring onion is essence. He celebrated the versatility of spring onion, viewing it as not only a vegetable but also as a key seasoning. This was beautifully captured in his Crispy Tilefish with Negi Sauce, where Cantonese techniques were employed to enhance the fish’s natural sweetness. Heavy seasonings were avoided. The dish was simply topped with a generous amount of finely sliced spring onions, over which hot oil was poured to unleash its aromatic qualities.
Other dishes highlighted chef Yamanobe’s creative reimaginings of traditional Chinese recipes. For example, the popular Chinese deep-fried wontons, where the customary pork or shrimp filling was replaced with Japanese oyster and Oba leaves, adding a fresh, unexpected dimension. The showstopper that evening, however, was the Fugu Shirako (pufferfish milt) Mapo Tofu, a signature of chef Yamanobe’s. The use of A5 Miyazaki sirloin—transformed into mince—an unexpected choice for this premium cut that had me intrigued but left chef Saito visibly stunned.
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As for the choice of fugu shirako, chef Yamanobe explained: “The creaminess of shirako and the spiciness of mapo tofu is an amazing pairing.” This creamy-spicy combination drew parallels to dishes like India’s butter chicken or Thailand’s red curry, where creamy bases complement the bold spices. “Pufferfish milt is preferred because, though codfish milt is very popular, it has a very fishy smell that cannot go well with meat,” chef Saito added.
The only fitting way to end the evening was with a yum seng, a traditional Chinese toast celebrating success, unity and joy—the perfect tribute to the spirit of this Echo In The Night collaboration and for more exciting partnerships that Sushi Hibiki has in store for 2025.
Photography by Law Soo Phye
Cover image: Chef Saito (left) and Chef Yamanobe (right)
