n the softly lit dining room, Chef Nikhil Nagpal stands at the edge of the open kitchen. As servers glide past with dishes that look more like art than food, the aroma of South Indian spices fills the air, hinting at the tantalising dishes to come. A French press arrives at the table, holding a reimagined Tomato Rasam, distilled to its essence and poured ceremoniously into a martini glass, releasing wisps of coriander and cumin into the air.
At Avartana, an award-winning contemporary fine-dining restaurant in Chennai’s ITC Grand Chola hotel, South Indian cuisine wears a different cloak—bold, artistic, yet rooted in local flavours. Here, chef Nikhil distils its building blocks into modernist forms, transforming familiar flavours into a culinary language spoken by contemporary restaurants that dot the world’s gastronomic capitals, such as Jungsik in Seoul, Labyrinth in Singapore, and Bo Innovation in Hong Kong.
“Our mission at Avartana is to present South Indian peninsula cuisine in a reimagined and reinvented showcase,” chef Nikhil says. “We take pride in showcasing traditional ingredients with innovative techniques, making these flavours more accessible and celebrated on the international stage.”
The restaurant’s name is derived from Sanskrit, meaning ‘rhythm’ and ‘magic’, and its dishes embody that philosophy, weaving together local spices, rich broths, and infused oils in creative presentations. The restaurant’s creations pay homage to South Indian flavours, but they appear on the plate in captivating, modern forms, often to emphasise the diversity of flavour and technique of the region.
“The soul of South Indian cuisine emphasises simplicity, locally sourced ingredients, and the harmonious balance of six core tastes—sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent, and astringent,” chef Nikhil explains. Indeed, a meal here is a colourful display of this harmony. The Tomato Rasam is joined by the Shrimp and Coriander Dumpling, a plump and delicate nod to kozhukattai, a traditional rice flour dumpling reinterpreted with a savoury palate. Another standout is the Raw Mango Pudding, which arrives with a small candle made of ghee. As the candle melts, it enriches the mango pudding, infusing it with warmth and aroma. “At Avartana, the heart and soul of Southern Indian cuisine remain intact, even as the techniques and presentation are innovative and contemporary,” chef Nikhil says.
Beyond just flavour, key to its clear sense of identity lies in its ingredients. An impressive 95 per cent of the restaurant’s produce is sourced from regional growers, showcasing the terroir of Southern India and the kitchen’s knowledge in using them. Chillies, for instance, are sourced from at least three different neighbouring regions: Salem in Tamil Nadu, Byadagi in Karnakata, and Guntur in Andhra Pradesh. Each of these chillies are expertly used in a myriad of ways. In the Spiced Aubergine, Byadagi chilli—known for its bright red colour, sweet taste and aroma—is deftly transformed into a vibrant, mildly spiced emulsion that beautifully complements the smoky, charred eggplant.
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Where relevant, the restaurant also showcases ingredients that international travellers would otherwise never come across. Gongura leaves, for example, traditionally used in Andhra Pradesh for its sharp, sour taste, finds its way in an emulsion that beautifully complements the most tender steamed seabass. “Southern India has a bounty of fresh ingredients and spices,” chef Nikhil says. “It is important to procure them from the best sources to maintain the authenticity of flavours from the region.”
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Chef Nikhil’s creativity has put Chennai on the map as a city worth exploring for high-end dining experiences. Within six years of opening, Avartana has been ranked 30th on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023 and 44th the following year. The awards have itself transformed Avartana into a magnet for gourmands, elevating Chennai into a respected destination in itself. Avartana has also opened outposts in ITC Hotels properties in Kolkata, Mumbai, Colombo, and New Delhi.
Beyond the familiarity of banana leaf rice and dosa, Avartana redefines South Indian cuisine, showcasing it as a refined culinary art. It is a powerhouse of innovation, crafting dishes that celebrate the region’s rich gastronomic traditions while pushing boundaries and challenging perceptions. “An Avartana experience ensures diners leave with a deeper understanding of South Indian cuisine, its sophistication and complexity,” chef Nikhil says. “Its essence lies in its ability to evoke warmth, comfort and a sense of community.”
Lead image: Avartana Main Dining Room
