While Penang may be the birthplace of renowned figures in fashion and sports such as Datuk Jimmy Choo and Datuk Nicol David, its brightest culinary star is undoubtedly Su Kim Hock, chef-patron of the one-Michelin-starred Au Jardin, one of the country’s first recipients of the star in 2022. Having made an indelible mark on Malaysia’s fine dining scene, he was also crowned Penang’s first Krug Ambassade last year and frequently travels abroad for guest stints at The Fullerton Hotel in Singapore, Avant in Shenzhen, and The Datai Langkawi.
A born and bred Penangite, Su is fiercely proud of his island like many other locals and insisted on opening the French-inspired Au Jardin in 2019 in his hometown with his team, many of whom are still working for him. His decision runs contrary to the choice of many Malaysians to settle down overseas despite honing his skills in the UK at some of its finest gastropubs and finding recognition in Taiwan as San Pellegrino’s Best Young Chef Semi-Finalist in 2016.
Su has also gradually delved into other cuisines, including the modern tapas bar Un Poco Loco; Japanese tapas bar Shokudo Niban; and taking over plant-based eatery Sincere Co, to create a burgeoning food empire in Penang. Recently, Su opened The Teochew Club, which serves authentic comfort dishes with plain white rice porridge as a nod to his roots within retro interiors for late supper seekers.
Despite his fame, Su remains warm and down-to-earth, pausing mid-photoshoot to help his staff with goods, and he also readily welcomes any chef to the island’s culinary scene, as Chef Ton of Bangkok’s Le Du recently shared with us.
Tell us more about your new venture, The Teochew Club. Why did you decide to do Teochew food?
Growing up as a Penangite, you could always find meh moi (night porridge), a culture which is disappearing. This place started off as an impulsive idea when I craved porridge one night with my friend Johnson Wong, chef-owner of Michelin selected Gēn. It was a disappointing experience, and I told him, “I can do better.” To be honest, it’s not a lucrative business because it’s something you can have anywhere, but I wanted to do it because it’s a comforting concept that we shouldn’t lose.
What are the standout dishes on your menu?
The duck-and-taro stew. We’ve managed to convert many non-taro lovers. (Editor’s note: we recommend the soy-braised pork belly too.)
How do you keep the dishes as authentically Teochew as possible?
I think that my forte is not just cooking, it’s also remembering flavours. I noticed from an early age that I could dissect flavours. Because I specialise in French food, the texture of protein means a lot to us. So, we put in our expertise to make sure the dishes are delivered with a certain texture but with the flavours we remember when we were kids. The unfortunate thing is that every household has their own recipes for Teochew food. Hence, the flavours that you and I remember will be very different unless we ate at the same location.
What factors influenced the locations or concepts of your various ventures?
One factor is seeing what the market wants, but I don’t want to be a trailblazer because as much as I want to be innovative, the stakes are high with all of my staff’s rice bowls being in it. My ventures are also inspired by places I encounter on my travels, as I will think, “Why don’t we have this in Penang?”. It might be in Kuala Lumpur but it is something I want to bring to the island.
Why are all of your restaurants in Penang?
When we decided to leave our previous place in Taiwan, it was clear-cut. We wanted to come back to Penang because it’s where 90 per cent of our team is from. We also wanted to do something for Penang. It’s not just about individual success because we all have to build the market as a whole. We try to lend a hand whenever possible. Penang is a great canvas, and we’re just putting the contents in.
Is there a reason why you don’t attach your name to your establishments?
Not really—whoever knows, knows. But we don’t publicise it because we don’t want to increase expectations but we’d rather let the food do the talking. I also don’t see it as an individual success because it’s a team effort.
How do you ensure that each restaurant or brand reflects your culinary philosophy?
I think getting the right texture consistently right is important. But instead of being philosophical about it, at the end of the day, the bottom line is that the food has to be delicious.
How do you contribute to local communities?
We are very supportive when it comes to local tertiary education institutions. If they need me to inspire culinary students or to share my experience, I’m more than willing because this is the future of our restaurant. We also work closely with local farmers, artisans and suppliers.
You now have a burgeoning food empire in Penang. What’s next? Are there any cuisines you hope to venture into?
I hope to venture into Peranakan food. I’m half Teochew, half Peranakan—and I’ve already answered to my Teochew ancestors.
Photography by Norlman Lo
