In 1972, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak hit the shelves cementing the “luxury sports watch” as a new category, paving the way for the Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976, IWC’s revamped Ingenieur SL the same year, and the Vacheron Constantin 222 in 1977. The 222, which was recently relaunched in 2022, was precursor to the Overseas, so we’ll begin here.
Unlike the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and the Ingenieur SL, the 222 was not designed by legendary watch designer Gérald Genta—though it certainly took cues from the maestro’s ideas. Named in celebration of the 222nd anniversary of Vacheron Constantin, it featured a monobloc 37 mm steel case; a scalloped, screw-down bezel; an integrated bracelet with hexagonal centre links; no crown guard; a matte dial with applied rectangular indices, baton hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock; and an ultra-thin automatic movement dubbed calibre 1121 based on the Calibre 920 from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which was also in use in the contemporary Royal Oak and Nautilus. Measuring just 7.2 mm thick, the 222 was water resistant to 120 meters, rendering it a capable sports watch (albeit of the luxurious variety). Conceived of by young ex-Rolex designer Jorg Hysek, it was given a special hallmark—the brand’s Maltese Cross logo—at the 5 o’clock position on the case top.
Produced in automatic 34 mm and quartz 25 mm versions as well as a square-shaped version, the 222 was made in relatively limited numbers: Estimates put steel production at less than 500 pieces and significantly less in solid gold or two-tone. By the 1980s it had been discontinued, with Vacheron following it in 1984 with a model dubbed the ‘333.’ With its octagonal case and integrated bracelet, this oddball model didn’t last long; it was fairly quickly succeeded by the Phidias, which further smoothed out the case profile into a rounded shape but retained the integrated-bracelet design. Vacheron added chronograph and GMT complications to the Phidias, forming a more complete collection than had been present within the 222 or 333 lineups.
The Birth of the Overseas
In the mid-1990s, with nearly two decades of luxury sports watch manufacturing under its belt, Vacheron Constantin—having been freshly acquired by Vendôme Luxury Group (later Richemont)—decided to return to the sportier character of the 222. Enlisting the services of watch designer Dino Modolo, it began work on a new product family under the direction of the maison’s head of design Vincent Kaufmann. Meant to accompany the well-to-do traveller, the Overseas debuted in 1996 in stainless steel or solid gold.
Designed as an elegant yet robust luxury sports watch, the Overseas was housed in a 37 mm tonneau-shaped case that clearly borrowed from the 222 and successor collections. Rather than a notched bezel, however, it featured a fluted design with eight larger cutaways reminiscent of the brand’s Maltese Cross logo. The multi-link bracelet with thin, vertically-oriented centre links was of course integrated into the case, while within the watch beat the automatic Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1310, a reworked, COSC-certified version of the Girard-Perregaux Calibre 3100. Water resistant to 150m, the Overseas was advertised as being “designed to weather any challenge.”
As was the case with the 222, Vacheron added smaller versions of the Overseas that clocked in at 35 mm and 24 mm. (Both the 37 mm and 35 mm references were upgraded from the Calibre 1310 to the 1311 fairly early in production.) In 1999, it further expanded the lineup with a chronograph version based upon a modified version of the Frédéric Piguet column-wheel Calibre 1185, which was given an outsize date function.
The Second-Generation Overseas
In 2004, Vacheron reworked the Overseas collection by tweaking its aesthetic codes, rendering it even more sporty and powerful looking: Gone were the first generation’s crown guards, while the integrated bracelet’s links took on a half-Maltese Cross shape and extended up the watch case to the bezel. Vacheron upsized the case size to 42mm in keeping with that era’s taste in larger watches, and gave the dials a subtle texture that further evoked the brand’s longtime symbol. (The bracelet and crown were also influenced by the Maltese Cross shape.) Within the collection, the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1126 (based upon the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 889) and the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1137 (based upon the Frédéric Piguet Calibre 1185) powered the three-hander and chronograph-with-date versions, respectively. Soft inner iron cage surrounded both movements, giving the collection better antimagnetic properties.
Two years later, Vacheron finally added a proper travel watch to the aptly named Overseas collection with the introduction of the Dual Time model. Powered by the automatic Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1222 (based upon the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 920), it offered a secondary time zone in an indicator above 6 o’clock, plus a day/night indicator, a power reserve indicator, and a date wheel between 2 and 3 o’clock. In 2007, the collection received its first model available on an integrated strap, rather than a bracelet. (The Overseas U.S. limited edition, made in a run of just 100 pieces, came on either leather or rubber.) In 2011, the collection received an impressive addition in the form of a perpetual calendar chronograph ‘Boutique Edition’ in stainless steel with a titanium bezel.
Inside, the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1136QP impressed with just 228 parts — a technical marvel given the movement’s sophistication. However, this calibre — like all calibres previously used within the Overseas line — was based upon an ébauche from a third party. (In this case, Frédéric Piguet.) The next generation of the Overseas line would see Vacheron finally offering what collectors yearned for in a super-high-end watch: Namely, an in-house movement.
The Third-Generation Overseas
In 2016, head of design Vincent Kaufmann once again revamped Vacheron’s signature travel watch collection by tweaking its aesthetic codes and, crucially, giving it a suite of in-house movements. Scaled down to 41 mm, the time-and-date model now featured a bezel with six (rather than eight) notches, allowing the Maltese Cross-like profile of the cutaway to become yet more apparent as it spread all the way to the case edges. Within the watch, Vacheron replaced the Calibre 1126—a reworked Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 889—with its own manufacture Calibre 5100. The chronograph model, likewise, did away with the Calibre 1137 (based upon the Frédéric Piguet Calibre 1185) and replaced it with the new manufacture Calibre 5200, while a smaller 37mm model received the new manufacture Calibre 5300.
Joined at launch by a stunning Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin model powered by the manufacture Calibre 1120—a watch that had previously appeared within the brand’s Patrimony collection—the Overseas would later receive a World Time model, a Tourbillon, a Dual Time model, a 33mm quartz model, various skeletonized models, and more. Eager to display their poinçon de Genève-hallmarked in-house movements, Vacheron equips each with a sapphire display caseback. In reference to the collection’s travel inspiration, the automatic calibres within the collection each feature a solid-gold winding rotor with a compass rose motif.
And as each watch is equipped with a “easy-fit” interchangeable strap system, the wearer can easily swap between bracelet and strap without a tool, lending the collection further utility for those who—like brand ambassador Cory Richards—truly use their watches as tools.
A cornerstone of the Vacheron Constantin collection, the Overseas inherited the luxury sports watch aesthetics and design codes of the 1970s and transformed them into a modern timepiece for the frequent traveller. Balancing highly accurate in-house movements with precious metals, ergonomic strap and bracelet options, useful complications, and—of course—good looks, the Overseas pulls off that rare feat of balance that gives a thoroughly beautiful watch true utility. As the maison offers fresh complications, metals, configurations, sizes, and more, there’s little doubt that the Overseas’ prestige will only continue to grow.
The Overseas Through Time
As Vacheron Constantin celebrates its 270th anniversary, now is a fitting time to examine the history of the Overseas collection through some of its most notable references. From the debut three-hander model in 1996 to today’s skeletonized perpetual calendar models, each is a creative exercise in high-end watchmaking.
Overseas ref. 42040/42042
Debuting in 1996, the reference 42040 represents the first-generation Overseas. Fitted in a 37mm steel or gold case with an integrated multi-link bracelet, an eight-notch Maltese Cross bezel, crown guards, and 150m of water resistance, it was powered by the automatic Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1310, a reworked, COSC-certified version of the Girard-Perregaux Calibre 3100 featuring a date function. Early on during production, the movement was upgraded to the Calibre 1311 and the reference number was changed to 42042. (This smaller 35mm reference 42050 was likewise upgraded from the Calibre 1310 to the 1311 and became the reference 42052.) Numerous dial configurations and colors exist, making the ref. 42040 a collector’s dream.
Reference: 42040/42042
Diameter: 37 mm
Movement: Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1310 automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $12,000-$37,000
Overseas Chronograph ref. 49140
In production from 1999 through 2004, the ref. 49140 was the first Overseas chronograph model. Sized at 40mm, it retained the eight-notched bezel and crown guards of the smaller 37 mm and 35 mm three-hander models but added dual notched pushers at the right-hand case flank. Powered by the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1137—a modified version of the Frédéric Piguet column-wheel Calibre 1185—it combined a three-register chronograph with an outsize date display below 12 o’clock, making for a rare combination of useful complications. Available in stainless steel with a sunburst silver or black dial with applied Arabic indices, it also came in yellow gold with a sunburst silver dial.
Reference: 49140
Diameter: 40 mm
Movement: Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1137 automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $16,000-$40,000
Overseas Dual Time ref. 47450
In 2004, Vacheron Constantin revamped the Overseas collection, upsizing the cases, ditching the crown guards, and revamping the bracelet links. In 2006, the brand added the Dual Time model, the collection’s first proper travel watch, with a secondary time zone indicator, a day/night indicator, a power reserve indicator, and a date wheel. Powered by the automatic Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1222 (based upon the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 920), this 42mm reference features screwed lugs that allow the user to swap out bracelet for strap with relative ease. The asymmetric dial, prominent Maltese Cross pattern on the bracelet, larger case size, and closed caseback all give this landmark reference a distinct sense of utility, making it the ideal watch for the luxury traveller.
Reference: 47450
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1222 automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $14,000-$40,000
Overseas Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 49020/000W-9656
In 2011, Vacheron added the first high complication to the Overseas collection in the form of a perpetual calendar chronograph. Cased in stainless steel with a titanium bezel, it features the 42mm case diameter of the Dual Time model along with its 150m of water resistance — a considerable amount for a high-complication watch. Based on an ébauchef from Frédéric Piguet, the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1136QP beating within features just 228 parts despite its sophisticated timekeeping abilities: On the dial is a combination month and leap year indicator below 12 o’clock; a combination date indicator and 30-minute totalizer at 3 o’clock; a combination running seconds and moonphase indicator above 6 o’clock; and a combination day indicator and 12-hour totalizer at 9 o’clock.
Reference: 49020/000W-9656
Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1136QP automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $44,000-$100,000
Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2000V/120G-B122
In 2016, Vacheron inaugurated the third-generation Overseas with several new models, among which was the first Ultra-Thin three-hander. Cased in white gold, the ref. 2000V/120G-B122 measured 40mm wide by just 7.5mm thick — a feat it managed by virtue of using the Calibre 1120, a movement developed by a consortium of Swiss watchmakers in the 1960s and, for many decades, the thinnest full rotor self-winding movement in the world. Vacheron reworked the Maltese Cross pattern on the bezel to feature six notches rather than eight, while the dial is date-less and features applied luminescent indices and sword hands. Paired to a beautiful, matching bracelet and equipped also with rubber or black-lined grey alligator straps, the Overseas Ultra-Thin is a versatile piece that can be dressed up or down in an instant.
Reference: 2000V/120G-B122
Diameter: 40 mm
Movement: Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1120 automatic
Price on Secondary Market: $108,000-$130,000
Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date ref. 4000V/210A-B911
In 2023, Vacheron carted over its well designed moon phase retrograde date complication into the Overseas line. Measuring 41mm wide by 10.48mm tall in stainless steel and equipped with 50m of water resistance, the ref. 4000V/210A-B911 is perhaps less truly sporty than elegant — nevertheless, its sturdy construction, automatic winding, integrated Maltese Cross bracelet and interchangeable leather and rubber straps make for a distinctly versatile package. The gorgeous blue dial is of course the showstopper: Executed in a sunburst satin finish, it features both a circular satin-finished internal minutes track as well as velvet-finished external minutes track; a retrograde date display in light below in an arc on the upper dial; an 18K gold moon and starry sky display above 6 o’clock; and applied, luminescent indices and lumed sword hands.
Reference: 4000V/210A-B911-B911
Diameter: 41 mm
Movement: Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 R31L/2 automatic
Price: $43,800
Photos from Menta Watches, Hodinkee, Sotheby’s, Tourneau, Bonham’s, Vacheron Constantin
Previously published on Robb Report USA
