Grill houses are rapidly emerging as a culinary trend across Malaysia’s vibrant culinary scene, captivating palates with their smoky aromas and succulent cuts. However, Penang island hasn’t seen an establishment specialising in barbecued meats quite like Blacklinen, where it is elevated to a gourmet indulgence. At the new five-star hotel The Millen, along Millionaire’s Row (better known as Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah), taking the elevator to level nine brings you to the establishment.
Like its name, Blacklinen’s interiors are draped in dark tones that exude a quiet elegance, along with plush red leather seats and large windows that offer a view of the infinity pool outside, which lends to its luxurious atmosphere. These are complemented by opulent implements, including Goyon-Chazeau handcrafted knives, Stölzle Lausitz and Května glassware, as well as customised wooden boards from local artisans. There is also a private room for intimate gatherings of up to 10 with a minimum spend of RM3,000.
A two-way glass encasement at the entrance hints at the menu offerings within, which may include seasonal seafood such as dry-aged rainbow trout or Australian Mayura Platinum Wagyu Tomahawk, depending on when you visit. Here, the gastronomic approach is kept simple and classic, allowing the true essence of the bounty from the ocean and the meats to shine through. These are prepared on the grill using bakau wood charcoal at the open kitchen, which allows guests to savour the anticipation before the dishes are brought to their table.
Chefs at Blacklinen use dry and wet ageing to enhance their meats. The former draws out moisture from the meat for a more complex and concentrated taste. Dry ageing involves hanging large cuts of meat in a controlled environment, while wet ageing involves vacuum sealing the meat to retain moisture, resulting in a milder flavour.
I tried the succulent Spanish Octopus, which is naturally sweet and almost creamy in texture, with a hint of lemongrass for an Asian touch.
A showstopper is the platter of duck and beef, served with Corn Ribs, Roasted Garlic Bulbs, and fresh rosemary. The Tajima Oyster Blade Marble 6 has a subtle smokiness, with a silky texture that melts in the mouth, which goes beautifully with garlic, rosemary, and sea salt. Although it is also paired with homemade steak sauce, Romesco, Creamy Horseradish, and Béarnaise Armagnac options, I find that the sea salt enhances the steak’s flavour rather than distracting from it. Meanwhile, the 14 days Dry Aged Cherry Valley Duck has an almost beef-like umami, with hints of earthy sweetness as well as a crackling exterior.
Wine and meats are timeless companions, and guests can pair the fare with vintages from a curated wine list that includes the premium 2017 Château Lafite Rothschild. What truly lingered in my memory long after I left was the simple yet exquisite tiramisu prepared tableside by the affable manager Hong Meng. He creates layers of chocolate chiffon, Kahlúa espresso syrup, biscuits, and mascarpone cheese, finished with cocoa powder and chocolate caramel sauce. A modern twist on a timeless dessert, each decadent bite perfectly balances the creaminess with rich coffee notes and a satisfying biscuit crunch.
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Experiences at Blacklinen are more than just a meal as its sumptuous interiors elevates the art of grilling into a sophisticated indulgence.
Blacklinen Contemporary Grill House
Lead image: The entrance of Blacklinen, with its dry aged meats on display.
