When Datuk Henry Yip, Food and Beverage Director of Upper Palace Dining Group, first launched Dragon-i in 2004, he did it with the intention of introducing Shanghainese cuisine to Malaysia. Twenty years later, he turns his attention to Upper Palace Teochew, which is dedicated to showcasing the true breadth of Teochew cuisine, far and beyond what most Malaysians are familiar with. “The only Teochew dishes that most Malaysians know are Teochew porridge and braised duck,” he says.
The origins of the Teochew people can be traced back to China’s Chaoshan region, consisting of three main cities: Chaozhou, Shantou, and Jieyang. Given its coastal geography, seafood naturally has a starring role in Teochew cuisine. Among its most emblematic dishes is yú fàn (鱼饭). “In English, it translates to ‘fish rice’, but in fact, there is no rice involved,” Yip says. Instead, it is fresh fish, traditionally poached in seawater and eaten cold—a convenient meal that reflects the seafaring lives of fishermen. Today, this heritage dish can be experienced in a modern-day presentation at Upper Palace Teochew, located in The Exchange TRX, featuring steamed threadfin served chilled with Puning bean paste for a gentle lift of flavour.
The concept of cold dishes is not limited to yú fàn. Largely shaped by the Teochew people’s lifestyle, this practice runs deep in a tradition designed for practicality, so much so that there’s even a term for it: daa laang (打冷). According to Yip, late-night street stalls in Chaoshan are popular for these cold offerings, serving dishes such as pork trotters, braised goose, and seafood. The dishes are prepared in advance, quickly served, and easily paired with rice or porridge. Upper Palace Teochew reinterprets this tradition through classic Teochew options such as chilled flower crabs, alongside a premium contemporary twist with Australian lobsters.
But there is more than one way to appreciate the purity of the ocean’s bounty in Teochew cuisine. Shēng yān (生腌) is a style of marinating raw seafood to enhance its natural sweetness and briny depth. Diners can find this local favourite at Upper Palace Teochew in the form of raw tiger prawns, infused with soy sauce, Shaoxing wine, garlic, Sichuan peppercorns, and coriander. The other option is a restaurant signature—soy-marinated raw mantis shrimp, a seasonal highlight that is only available when conditions align. “It tastes really good when the mantis shrimps come with roe,” Yip shares. If this dish sounds familiar, it may be because it shares similarities with Thailand’s kung che nampla—raw shrimp marinated in fish sauce and lime juice, then served with gourd, garlic, and chilli. The resemblance isn’t accidental. “Most of the Chinese people in Thailand are Teochew,” he states, explaining the impact of the Teochew diaspora.
In a time before refrigeration was invented, the process of marination wasn’t just about infusing flavour, it also played a crucial role in semi-preservation. Over generations, this, along with other methods of extending food shelf life, gradually evolved into a key feature of the Teochew culinary identity. Fermented shrimp paste and pickled mustard greens, for example, define iconic dishes such as Teochew-style steamed fish and Teochew-style porridge.
The porridge, though humble, is a dish loved and recognised by many—including those unacquainted with the region’s culture—thanks to its distinct texture and soup-like consistency. In place of expected staples, Upper Palace Teochew shifts this spotlight to a lesser-known specialty: oyster porridge. It is made with minced pork and oysters harvested from Nan’ao Island, located just off the coast of Shantou and widely regarded as a seafood haven. “Within a 50km radius, the island is free from pollution,” Yip explains. “The government doesn’t allow any heavy industries there, so the waters are very clean for cultivating oysters.” What arrives is a dish that looks simple but is full of character. Every spoonful is soul-warming, allowing for the umami of the oysters to shine.
Notice that the techniques employed in Teochew cooking, whether it’s poaching or steaming, emphasise light and clean flavours, which is a principle known as qīng dàn (清淡). “Teochew cuisine is very refined,” Yip says. Even the more intense flavours brought about by preservation are used with restraint and balance. Lou mei (滷味), or braised meats, a hallmark of Teochew cuisine, may seem rich but is comparatively lighter and more delicate than the Cantonese style of braising. Having collaborated with chef-owner Lai Wai-Hung of the one-Michelin-starred Hung’s Delicacies from Hong Kong, Upper Palace Teochew seized the opportunity to perfect its craft. “He was the one who taught us how to make Teochew braised goose,” Yip says. “The brine can last for many years. The longer you keep the brine, the better it tastes.”
Every six months, Yip makes it a point to stop by Chaoshan for a visit. As Vice Chancellor of the Shantou Teochew Cuisine Research Institute (汕头市潮人潮菜研究院), these trips are essential to his ongoing culinary exploration and cultural exchange. Among his most interesting discoveries is fish maw—specifically ones from the yellow croaker, which are deeply valued and considered as some of the finest. “When the Teochew marry, they will usually be gifted fish maw,” Yip says. “It’s rich in collagen and is also really good for your immune system because it is very high in amino acids. It’s especially great for women.” Upper Palace Teochew serves this delicacy in a variety of ways, from slow-simmered soups and gentle braises to a lesser-seen stir-fried version with crab meat and scrambled eggs.
Although seafood and braised dishes have long been pillars of traditional Teochew cuisine, beef has also gained more prominence in modern times. In Chaoshan, Yip recounts how the locals enjoy their beef fresh from the abattoir, then immediately served at the table and often for hotpot. Upper Palace Teochew, known for its refined banquet-style offerings, recently introduced a new hotpot concept for Malaysians to discover the authenticity of this Teochew experience, which is a stark contrast to the numbing heat of Sichuan or Chongqing hotpots. Here, the broths are clear, with subtle aromatics, alongside fresh seafood and premium cuts of beef, allowing for the focus to be on the meats. Although it may not mirror the immediacy of Chaoshan’s preparations, it remains true to the essence of its approach.
If there’s one thing not to be overlooked in the Teochew culture, it is its tea. “They like to have their tea after their food,” Yip shares, explaining its assistance with digestion, especially after a heavy meal. Dān Cōng Oolong (单枞乌龙), in particular, is a favoured tea among locals for many reasons. At the top of the list is its nuanced profile, which is capable of taking on a wide selection of flavours, from prominent honey notes to sweet floral aromas. Stepping into Upper Palace Teochew, diners will spot an open-concept tea room, where a large selection of Dān Cōng teas awaits. Recognised as one of China’s most elegant teas, it hails from the Phoenix Mountain, which isn’t very far from the Chaoshan region. “We bring in special tea sets for this,” Yip says. Through a unique method of brewing called gōng fu chá (功夫茶), the tea is only served after multiple steepings and short infusions to extract its flavour. According to Yip, tea ceremonies would only be performed in the VIP rooms but soon, all diners will be able to experience it at their individual tables when they order the Dān Cōng Oolong.
Although Teochew cuisine remains the core of the restaurant, honouring one tradition doesn’t mean closing the door to another. Prior to the establishment of Upper Palace Teochew, Yip had already set his sights on three main dishes to feature: shēng yān, braised goose, and Peking duck. The duck, despite not being a part of Teochew cuisine, was a natural choice, as it draws from the expertise of its sister restaurant, Upper Palace Super Peking Duck. “We are equipped with a proper oven and a chef who has trained in Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant,” Yip says, referencing the renowned Beijing restaurant that has perfected the dish since 1864. At Upper Palace Teochew, this dish is made using Irish ducks and roasted over lychee wood, which imparts a fruity aroma to the meat without overpowering it, resulting in a time-honoured dish served in its best form.
By year’s end, Upper Palace Teochew will be honoured for far more than just its authentic cuisine, but also as an official overseas Teochew training centre. Aspiring chefs will have a chance to gain hands-on experience in the kitchen and participate in a student exchange programme to Chaoshan for a deeper understanding of the culture. This is only the beginning of a revival, with centuries of flavour still yet to discover.
Photography: Law Soo Phye
