Phnom Penh is a city on the verge of becoming. Like a young adult, she has tossed her past aside, preferring to be taken at present-day face value. Take to her or leave her, she is here to stay. As the capital of Cambodia, her chequered past has been unfairly examined and dissected in rooms (and WhatsApp group chats) where she wasn’t present. Her reputation: a foregone, inaccurate conclusion. But it seems Phnom Penh no longer cares if people insist on placing tired imprints on something completely new.
The city is transforming at a startling pace; today’s iteration is unrecognisable from that of a decade ago, and a different version will certainly exist in five years’ time. There is a palpable energy here, a buzz that vibrates from the packed local coffee bars to the countless new building developments in and around the city. The latest of these is the Techo International Airport, a monumental project located 24km from the city centre. In this landscape of ambition, the Rosewood Phnom Penh, occupying the higher floors of the Vattanac Capital Tower, introduces a convincing element of ultra-luxury to a city that’s clearly dressing for the job it wants.
The ascent to the hotel lobby is a journey in itself, a transition from the vibrant chaos of the streets to a hushed, art-filled sanctum in the clouds. The property’s exacting blend of French-accented hospitality and a Hong Kong-style efficiency is evident throughout the 175-key property. My room was a testament to this, a perfectly composed space of dark wood, polished lacquer, and subtle Khmer design motifs. It felt less like a hotel room and more like a beautifully appointed observation deck for one. Hand-carved wooden panels depicted scenes from the Reamker, the Khmer version of the Ramayana, their intricate details offering a quiet contrast to the city’s dual nature of modern and colonial. The bathroom, a cavern of cool, cream-coloured marble, featured a deep soaking tub. From this vantage point, Phnom Penh reveals itself as a thriving organism of light and motion.
This refined approach extends to its dining. Over at Brasserie Louis—named for the celebrated chemist Louis Pasteur, who founded an institute in Phnom Penh—the menu is a sophisticated nod to the past. Rosewood’s exacting culinary standards were on display at both Brasserie Louis and during its recent ‘Taste of Cambodia’ series, a thoughtful showcase of the country’s leading bars, distilleries, and chefs.
One of the standouts is Seekers Spirits, a homegrown distillery operating from a former textile factory on the city’s outskirts. Their inventive creations range from ready-to-serve negronis to award-winning standalone gins like the Mekong Dry Gin, a 2018 Gold winner at the Hong Kong World Gin Masters Competition. The gin makes full use of the region’s natural bounty, with botanicals such as pandan, Asian lime leaf, Battambang green oranges, and Khmer basil foraged directly from the Mekong’s verdant banks.
These spirits, alongside a curated selection of whiskies, take their star turn at Sora, a rooftop nightspot that earned the number 65 spot on the Asia’s Best Bars list for 2024. Well-known establishments from across Cambodia—including Infusion Bar (Siem Reap), Bar 43 (Siem Reap), and Papa Wong (Phnom Penh)—have contributed to a series of events here, proving that the nation’s cocktail culture is emerging and thriving.
The food scene is equally dynamic. While some of the city’s top tables are conveniently located within the Rosewood—at steakhouse Cuts, Japanese restaurant Iza, and Zhan Liang with its Cantonese, Sichuanese, and Northern Chinese cuisines—exploring beyond the hotel’s gleaming facade is essential. A short stroll away is Pi Sa, a rustic restaurant in a traditional first-floor shophouse, where Chef Sothea Song offers inventive riffs on traditional dishes, such as frogs’ legs with guacamole, and lemongrass-infused beef with toasty morning glory.
Beyond the food and drink, Phnom Penh’s cultural attractions are more intricate than conspicuous, stemming from centuries of artistic endeavour, albeit with a forced pause in the late 1970s. A conversation with the Rosewood’s concierge, Ratanak Lorn (or Rocky), is a gateway to the city’s less-trodden paths. Rather than a printed map, my quick chat with Rocky resulted in a personally typed letter, delivered to my room within 30 minutes, detailing his considered recommendations. His suggestions included Orussey Market, which he described as “ideal for wholesale shopping and a more immersive experience, though it can be crowded and overwhelming”. He noted that Silk Island “offers a relaxing escape from the city with its scenic fields, stilt houses, and rural charm”. He also pointed me towards the Russian Market, known as Phsar Toul Tom Poung, to find “souvenirs, antiques, art, and jewellery”.
Over at the hotel’s spa, Sense, guests can recover from the city’s sultry heat with treatments like the nourishing 24k Gold Age-Defying Facial, designed for tired travellers accustomed to early morning flights and later-than-expected arrivals. The treatment blends Mogra—the Queen of Jasmines—with 24k gold to optimise collagen and conjure an enviable glow.
Treatments from the spa menu offer a genuine dialogue with Cambodian healing traditions, inviting guests to explore therapies rooted in ancient practices. The Traditional Khmer Massage is an invigorating, oil-free therapy, worlds away from a typical Swedish treatment. The focus here is on reawakening the body, using a series of deep, grounding pressures and yoga-like stretches to unlock tension. For those seeking pure, unadulterated comfort, the Khmer Herbal Poultice massage proves compelling. The treatment uses steaming compresses packed with fragrant, indigenous herbs such as lemongrass and ginger. As the warm bundles are rhythmically pressed across tired muscles, the air fills with a restorative, citrusy aroma. It is a definitively soothing experience—a sensorial connection to the kingdom’s wellness heritage.
Next door, at the Pedi:Mani:Cure Studio by Bastien Gonzalez, one can experience the unique techniques of one of the world’s foremost podiatrists. It’s a treatment performed with the focus of a surgeon and the touch of a craftsman. There is no polish involved; instead, the nails are buffed with chamois leather and a special cream until they gleam with a natural, healthy lustre that lasts for weeks —a cuticle-restoring experience like no other.
