Holidaymakers typically treat the city of Ipoh as a convenient stopover between Kuala Lumpur and Penang, dropping by to have a taste of its delectable local cuisine. One might also explore the magnificent cave temples or admire its colonial architecture, but it definitely wouldn’t be the first place that comes to mind for an opulent getaway.

However, The Banjaran Hotsprings Resort, part of Sunway Hotels & Resorts and a mere 15 minutes’ drive from Ipoh city centre, is a luxurious enclave that is worth a dedicated trip. Stepping onto the resort’s 9.18ha of private land feels like crossing into another world entirely. Malaysia’s first luxury hot springs spa resort is hidden from the main road, flanked by majestic 260-million-year-old Palaeozoic limestone hills and a prehistoric jungle. The temperature is significantly cooler in the valley, where I found myself also surrounded by natural caves, cascading waterfalls, and, of course, the resort’s namesake geothermal hot springs.

I’ve never been the type to seek out wellness experiences, but exploring The Banjaran’s unparalleled facilities showed me just how transformative a retreat can be. It is the only resort in the world to have hot springs and four accessible caves within limestone hills. The Geothermal Hot Springs Dipping Pools, the result of a natural and fairly unusual phenomenon, provide a relaxing soak that also aids in alleviating stressed muscles and tired joints. Guests can also explore the caves, such as the Thermal Steam Cave, with temperatures of 65°C to 70°C to create a natural sauna for detoxification. A delightful spot is the Doctor Fish Pool, where Garra Ruffa fish are an unusual way to pamper tired feet as they silently work and leave guests with smoother skin.

These charming offerings are exclusive only to guests, who can enjoy stays at one of the 44 luxury villas across five categories: Royal, Grand Garden, Garden, Water, and Lake villas. A stay within the spacious Grand Garden Villa, spanning 260 sq m, comes with an elegant outdoor courtyard, commodious living area, a sundeck, Bose sound systems, and luxe Balmain and Amouage toiletries. I spent my mornings with a dip in the private swimming pool as a hummingbird darted past, before relaxing in the geothermal jacuzzi. Grand Garden Villa guests also have the option of having a personal chef and booking the interconnecting Royal Villa.

Fine Dining Meets The Majesty Of Nature

Central to The Banjaran Hotsprings Resort experience is Jeff’s Cellar, which sits high on the culinary bucket list for many Malaysian gourmands as one of the nation’s most breathtaking dining destinations. Tan Sri Sir Dr. Jeffrey Cheah, Sunway’s founder and chairman, who regularly visits to pay personal attention to various facets of the resort, lent his name to the establishment. First opened in 2009, it recently underwent a multi-million-ringgit three-month renovation. The space was enhanced by Nelson Yong, executive director of Sunway Design, who designed the resort itself as well as some of Malaysia’s most iconic tourist attractions, such as Sunway Lagoon and Sunway Pyramid.

As one steps into the gaping mouth of the 260-million-year-old limestone cave, one gains entry into an otherworldly dining chamber amidst stalactites, stalagmites, and rimstone pools. These are enhanced by premium furnishings, new flooring, and perfectly positioned mood lighting, such as sculptural pendant fixtures that resemble glowing starbursts, casting warm highlights across the textured stone walls. Soft strains of Pavarotti drift through the space over the state-of-the-art Bose sound system, which forms the soundtrack to the meals. Marc Groh, general manager of The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat, shared, “We took great care in creating a space that balances sophistication and opulence with the raw beauty of the cave.”

The venue’s signature upper and lower decks have been retained, while a new private space with a dedicated wine cellar, perfect for small groups of around 15 guests, has been introduced.

The most stunning addition is a new bar, where bottles of the finest spirits are displayed like treasures in a softly illuminated alcove. Here, guests are welcomed with champagne served in Royal Selangor pewterware. The transformation goes beyond the design aesthetic, with a fresh focus on fine wines and three new tasting menus by chef Lee Choon Boon.

“We used to place a stronger emphasis on local ingredients, but we’ve since begun incorporating more European influences,” Ipoh-born Lee said. “My foundation is in Italian cuisine, yet I don’t want to confine myself to a single box. I believe in creating delicious food by bringing together all the techniques I’ve learned and letting them coexist on the plate.”

I tried the 11-course Chef’s Tasting Menu, paired with eight varieties of wine. The dishes included Diver Scallops—two scallops served au jus on a seashell with Amur caviar—a Duo of Sole with nasturtium capers and Lime Béarnaise, and A5 Miyazaki Wagyu.

Lee also elaborated on one of the highlights of the menu, Poussin en Vessie. “Born from the natural wonders of our own hot spring landscape, this dish undergoes six to eight hours of slow cooking ritual within the geothermal water. This time-honoured ritual enriches the chicken with natural minerals, resulting in a succulent, flavour-packed delicacy. It’s something special and fun.”

He also shared the backstory of the Beans dessert, comprising bean curd shards, Ipoh peanuts crumbs, Bentong ginger powder, soybean mousse, local signature bean sprout, tofu gelato, and lemongrass bavarois mousse. “I’ve actually been trying to perfect this dish for five years, which is currently in its fifth variation,” Lee said. “I wanted to pay tribute to Ipoh’s famous ingredient by making it the focus in a dessert, as including it in an appetiser would be too predictable.”

After the splendid meal, guests are invited to explore the restaurant’s namesake cellar—though the bottles are not available for public sale. This exquisite space houses Tan Sri Cheah’s private collection, featuring Domaine de la Romanée-Conti vintages from the year 2000, renowned for their extreme rarity and high value.

The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat is a truly private, luxurious escape, intrinsically designed around the natural topography, where no trees were compromised. From the unparalleled natural beauty of its Palaeozoic hills and hot springs, to the world-class culinary artistry of Jeff’s Cellar and the holistic care offered at the Spa & Wellness Centre, the resort offers an integrated journey of indulgence and renewal in a single enchanting destination.

The zenith of the wellness journey unfolds at The Banjaran Hot Springs Resort’s award-winning Spa & Wellness Centre, which underwent renovations in 2024. It goes beyond the average hotel massage experience, with more than 40 types of holistic treatments and therapies inspired by the traditional practices of Malay, Chinese, and Indian cultures. In addition to massage therapists, the team of wellness practitioners include an Ayurvedic specialist, a traditional Chinese medicine doctor, a yoga instructor, and a personal trainer. For treatments beyond the ordinary, the spa offers colon hydrotherapy, antioxidant restorative therapy, and hydrotherapy, as well as energy healing treatments such as Reiki and Chakra Energy Balancing.

The Banjaran Hot Springs Resort

Photos courtesy of The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat