Switzerland is a land of fairytales. Snowcapped mountains and sprawling valleys harken the imagination of elves and dwarves, while glittering lakes and sweeping coasts make the possibility of mermaids very, very real. Switzerland is also a land of time travel, if you know how to chart your course through its different cantons.
In the Canton of Graubünden, you will easily be transported centuries back in time, especially in its capital of Chur. To get there, the slowest express train in the world, the Glacier Express, will transport you across the three cantons of Valais, Uri and Graubünden, offering breathtaking and varied panoramic views of sheer pleasure for the eyes and palate.
Reputedly the oldest town in Switzerland, the historic Old Town of Chur awakens every morning to the spirit of more than 5,000 years of settlement. Completely car-free, go back to simpler times when you’ll have to skip to the farmer’s market on Saturday mornings for groceries, and drinking water can be drawn directly from its many stone fountains spouting crystal clear spring water from the Alps.
Chur is the ideal place to delve in to the history of Switzerland and its four national languages—German, French, Italian and Romansh—a multilingualism that is enshrined in law and cultivated in society. Although German is the most spoken and the official language of Chur, the people also speak a local variant of Alemannic, known as Grisonian German, Romansh, a Rhaeto-Romance dialect of the Romansh people, and Italian, given its neighbouring proximity. This trilingual identity of the canton is reflective of the founding Three Leagues guild of the city, that would become Grison and then Graubünden following the Napoleonic Wars in 1803.
Due to its long history, Chur is proudly one of the best-preserved Old Towns in Switzerland. Three regional museums and more than 500 shops offer something to do in any weather. One of the oldest practices that Chur has not only preserved but brought back from near extinction is the art of the alphorn.
Traditionally the instrument of mountain shepherds, the alphorn has long graduated from a tool used to call cows from the pastures and communicate between mountainous terrain, to being a star at seasonal festivals. A long horn, typically made of wood, plays the sound of natural tones, manipulated by trained lips for songs of low reverberating harmony.
Once you’ve soaked up enough of the times of old, jump into the future in Zurich, the economic leader and globally recognised financial district of Switzerland. More than just banks, Zurich has established itself as an important centre for Internet computer technologies, life sciences and green technology, as well as a bubbling hub for the creative, hospitality and tourism industries.
Art lovers will revel in the Kunsthaus Museum, Switzerland’s largest art museum, bringing together more than 800 years of art history ranging from the Middle Ages to the present day. It is home to the most important museum collection of works by Alberto Giacometti and the biggest assembly of paintings by Edvard Munch outside Norway, along with outstanding works of Impressionism and Classical Modernism—from Claude Monet, Vincent van Gogh and Pablo Picasso to Pierre Bonnard, Oskar Kokoschka and Marc Chagall.
Nature enthusiasts will be in their element along the banks of Lake Zurich, where crisp waters allow for swimming and the green gardens on the fringe make for idyllic picnics. Shopping spills over from the gleaming boutiques that line the picturesque Bahnshofstrasse, Zürich’s main downtown street and one of the world’s most exclusive shopping avenues. For something edgier, Zurich West, formerly the industrial quarter and now a trendy up-and-coming neighbourhood, charms with many restaurants, bars and On Labs, the global headquarters of On high-performance running shoes.
Foodies will be well satiated with Zurich’s many dining establishments, ranging from Swiss institutions to new-age gastrobars. At Bellevue, The Kronenhalle has been a historic meeting place for artists and the literati since 1924, delighting with its cultivated Swiss classics such as sliced filet of veal with rosti, served in the presence of original paintings by Chagall, Picasso and Miró hanging on the walls. More leisurely experiences await at brasseries aplenty like Bohemia, where hearty fry-ups can be had alongside an appetite-whetting Bloody Mary. For views aplenty, the Restaurant UTO Kulm, sitting on the top of Uetliberg, serves dinner literally at the top of Zurich with uninterrupted views of the city, the lake and the Alps.
Between Graubunden and Zurich, the story of more than five thousand years of German-speaking Switzerland unfolds in authentic settings you can literally see, touch, taste and breathe. Who needs a time machine when you have a Swiss Travel Pass?
Where to stay
Hotel Stern Chur
The only quality full service 4-star swiss historic hotel in Chur, the capital of the Canton of Graubünden. Its living traditions, personal touch, and romantic atmosphere make it the number one address in Chur.
Park Hyatt Zurich
Perfectly situated between the picturesque Lake Zurich and the famous Old Town. Indulge in the finest elements of the Swiss commitment to serenity, luxury and art.
Lead image: The historic Old Town of Chur is reputedly the oldest city in Switzerland with a history of more than 5,000 years of settlement.
