For everyone who isn’t a 23-year-old backpacker, India is a tough nut to crack; it also has the sweetest meat. That’s why luxury tours, from Micato to Abercrombie & Kent, are the basis of much of the Indian travel industry. Crossing the country safely, efficiently, and extravagantly is simply a matter of choosing your favorite operator and sitting back. Were you really going to drive yourself in Delhi?
Lucky for you, the red-hot competition to guide your next big trip is producing a luxury race and the creation of increasingly lavish travel experiences. The latest burst of fire comes from a local, low-key hotel group.
At the close of 2023, Leela Properties (an India-based company owned by Canadian corporate giant Brookfield) launched the Leela Palace Trail, a six palace, 10-night trans-India adventure.
The full trail begins in the south—at the small coastal city of Kovalam and the regional capital of Bengaluru—and extends both to the west (Udaipur and Jaipur) and the east (Chennai), before ending to the north in New Delhi. Along the way, you’ll be treated to luxury transportation, exclusive activities, and accompanied by a personal butler. Pricing starts from $6,200.
Robb Report joined a journey to see how it stacked up in the cutthroat competition for Indian splendor.
New Delhi
Itineraries range from six to 10 nights, and you can pick your destination à la carte to create the perfect Indian menu.
For my itinerary, I chose Udaipur, Jaipur, and New Delhi, and I flew Turkish Airlines from JFK to New Delhi. While Air India flies direct from JFK, Turkish offers a business-class stopover program that includes an extended layover option with an included hotel stay—making it one of the better one-stop flight options.
After you arrive, a BMW transfer delivers you to the Leela Palace New Delhi, the first stop on your journey for most itineraries.
The capital of India is full of life, bustling markets, and delicious cuisine. But it takes a lot out of your social battery, so having that chauffeur-driven BMW and your personal butler ever-present makes the experience a treat.
Back at the palace, which is set in the capital’s diplomatic quarter, yoga by the pool in the mornings and art walks—featuring pieces by Indian artists such as Sanjay Bhattacharya, Satish Gupta, Laxma Goud, and Paresh Maity—are two highlights.
No matter which property you are at, each night begins with a ritual that celebrates the city. For New Delhi, the ceremony is an expression of gratitude by showering Devi, the Great Goddess and Mother Goddess.
If you feel like venturing outside your hotel for dinner—and you should—your butler can give you recommendations or set you up with a guide to explore the local markets. Celebrated Japanese hot spot Megu, the Library Bar, and traditional Indian food favorite Jamavar, which is on property, are all worth checking out.
However, everything will be tailored to your interests. I prefer markets, local artisan shops, and interacting with animals, and I was not disappointed. I also explored destinations like Old Delhi, Humayun’s Tomb, India Gate, Lutyens Delhi, and President House. Your guide will assist in choosing street food and shopping for art, spices, silk, and even local candies.
Udaipur
After Delhi, I headed south to the Leela Palace Udaipur. Once again I arrived via a perfectly chilled BMW, which felt amazing in the 100-degree heat.
Like all of the palace resorts here, the Leela Palace is on Lake Pichola. We drove about 40 minutes before boarding the boat for a 15-minute ride to the hotel.
I heard soft, distant music that grew louder as the boat approached the property. Smiling faces welcomed me, shading me with an umbrella as I stepped off the boat. Musicians played sitars and harmonium. My bags were taken care of, so I could soak in the overwhelming gratitude and warm welcome. As I walked to the entryway, I was handed a glass of Champagne as rose petals came showering down on me. It was truly one of the most special welcomes I’ve ever received.
Attention to detail is the focus here. The chef knew that I enjoy photography and often had my camera with me. Before I arrived, he made an edible replica of my camera and an edible map of India in addition to some other treats that were left in my room. The butler figured out that I was loving all the fresh mango and made sure that there were platters in my room each night without me even asking. When I returned to my room from the spa, a warm bubble bath was ready. I felt so taken care of.
The ritual to celebrate Rajasthan involved music and dance that tell local stories. There is also a daily temple ritual held at the 162-year-old Lord Shiva Temple led by a priest.
The best dining on property is at Sheesh Mahal, a private, curated meal offered upon request to couples or groups that want a little more seclusion near the lake.
Leela offers guests the option to get out and explore the beautiful city of Udaipur, well-known for its peaceful lakes, food, palaces, and architecture. Work directly with your butler to create the ideal itinerary.
For one of my days in Udaipur, the team coordinated a trip to Jawai Greens in a luxury vehicle for a leopard safari. It was one of the most incredible experiences spotting not just the mother, but two cubs eating a kill, along with crocodiles, exotic birds, and even a black cobra. My butler also attended the tour, so I had someone with me the entire time to make sure I was taken care of.
Jaipur
Next stop on the palace trail is the Leela Palace Jaipur in the famous Pink City. As Rajasthan’s capital city, there’s plenty of amazing architecture, history, textiles, and food.
Upon arrival, the rose petals once again started sprinkling down as a scarf was draped around my neck.
After the warm welcome, my butler drove me to my room in a golf cart. My room included a private plunge pool, cabana, outdoor seating area, and dining table.
Here, having learned of my love of mangos from the other properties, the chef went out of his way to create multiple mango-themed treats and an edible mango map of India.
After check-in, you can get a facial at the spa or a relaxing massage. Lunch at Sukh Mahal is a must, with some of the best butter poached salmon that melts in your mouth. The nightly ceremonial ritual here was quite different from the others. Where the other performances in New Delhi and Udaipur are a show you can relax and watch, the Jaipur property had a very interactive display of performances from music to puppet shows, and hand crafts involving traditional ways to make bangles with color blocks, tarot card readings, clay pot making, and henna.
Begin your day on a relaxing note with yoga at Hawa Mahal featuring breathing techniques and relaxation sessions. The temple ritual is another great way to begin or end your day. During the day, explore Jaipur with a private guide set up through Leela to explore Hawa Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, City Palace, Chand Baori, and Monkey Mountain, as well as learn about vegetable block printing and textiles at Ganesham Textile & Handicraft.
From here, Leela can set up transfers to Ranthambore for the day (about 3 to 4 hours away) to experience a private Tiger Safari through Viator. When you arrive at the park, you’ll have lunch on the property before tracking tigers.
Back at Jaipur, grab a drink at Jharokha Bar before a special dining experience at Mohan Mahal, filled with traditional Thikri mirror work reflecting the flickering candles.
As my trip came to an end, I expressed interest in seeing the Taj Mahal in Agra. The Leela team set up a private tour stopping in Agra as I traveled from Jaipur back to New Delhi.
It’s the ability to improvise to ensure I saw and did everything that was important to me—rather than sticking to a rigid itinerary—that made the experience.
