The softly dimmed and deep-seated backdrop of Atas, the in-house restaurant at The RuMa Hotel and Residences, recently hosted an ephemeral gastronomic affair with the authentically robust profile of Roots from Kuching. Entitled as Table of Flavours: A Culinary Celebration, the exclusive four-hands dinner spotlighted a culinary dialogue between the East and West, imbuing European bistro staples with the aromatic spices and cultural tapestry of Sarawak.
Part of the Food Journal group, Roots is embedded within the historic 150-year-old colonial property at The Old Court House in Kuching. The establishment strongly upholds the use of local harvests and has taken an imaginative approach to highlight Borneo—a cooking philosophy that embraces the island’s cultivated biodiversity, spanning tropical rainforests and coastal waters. Atas, on the other hand, presents a decorous European undertone that emanates a sanctum-like setting away from the frenetic pace of Kuala Lumpur. Their menu has since transitioned from modern Malay cuisine to European specialties enriched with inland influences.
The four-course tasting menu was resourcefully adapted by executive chef Suhalmi Tasir of Atas and chef John Lim of Roots, maximising regional produce and established recipes that reflected both chefs’ signature traits. “This four-hands dinner is a celebration of Malaysian culinary diversity. Working with chef John has allowed us to blend our distinct styles and honour the essence of our nation’s cuisine,” Tasir shared. Lim elaborated: “This dinner is more than just a meal; it’s an experience that showcases the depth and complexity of Sarawak’s culinary heritage in a modern and accessible way.”
The dinner ushered in two types of amuse bouche: smoked belangkas horseshoe crab roe from Atas, cloaked in bellini and crowned with few dollops of crème fraiche, paired with a handful of crispy dabai chips from Roots alongside turkey chorizo and caramelised onion dip, finished with a scattering of tobiko. This prelude raised an enticing lead-in to the following courses. For appetisers, the mesh of roasted cauliflower and broccoli from Roots was noteworthy. The plate was enveloped with duck ham, covered with romesco and kulim sauce, and finished with panzanella crumbs for added texture—an intriguing and multifaceted dish that flustered the palate upon the first taste, but gradually came together in pleasing cohesion as each bite continued.
Each team’s house specialty was represented in the main course. Atas brought in their very own smoked wagyu brisket dressed with creamy mashed potatoes, charred kailan, and anise jus, while the pan-seared golden pomfret by Roots was stacked with mussels escabeche and roselle kosho, all basted atop squid ink sauce. Finally, the closing sweet note prepared by both Atas and Roots: a seemingly simple yet unexpected dessert, the artisan stracciatella featured mulberry brown butter ice cream, edible ants that mimicked the guise of charcoal crumble (and tasted like Oreo crumbs), and vanilla meringue. This was enjoyed with a generous glass of craft ‘black glutinous’ tuak by Tuak Alchemist.
Although the dinner showcase was brief, the menu exhibited a multitude of qualities that celebrated Sarawak’s culinary scene. This inventive combination with European familiarities ensured that the entire dining experience was anything but dull.
