Nature has been a fount of inspiration for Cartier for more than a century, unmistakably through its enduring panther symbol, and even extends to its use of organic materials such as mother-of-pearl and the practice of ethical sourcing of precious stones. In its haute joaillerie collections, Cartier draws heavily on the splendour of nature, translating organic forms into some of the world’s most sought-after high jewellery pieces. This year, the French Maison unveils Nature Sauvage, where necklaces, rings, bracelets, earrings and brooches, each works of art on their own, invite both the wearer and the beholder on a journey to encounter a menagerie of creatures.
“A new perspective of the Cartier fauna, to surprise, amaze, and bring modernity by way of unexpected encounters,” Jacqueline Karachi, Cartier’s director of high jewellery creation, said in a statement. “Expressive jewellery that showcases the attitudes and personality of an animal, its vitality. Like an actor, it plays with graphics, with volume and optical illusions, blending into an imaginary landscape. This is the spirit of Nature Sauvage.”
Although one might imagine that these creations best match the artistry of bespoke gowns, South Korean actor Teo Yoo fronts the campaign dressed in understated threads and carries it with aplomb, letting the gems shine through.
Amongst the diverse pieces, four exceptional necklaces comprising emeralds, rubellites and other precious gems, sprinkled liberally with diamonds, truly showcase Cartier’s exceptional savoir-faire—thus creating a dialogue between creativity and technique.
Chryseis: The Butterfly Effect
Cartier’s use of butterfly motifs in jewellery first began around the 1920s and 1930s, as part of the Art Deco movement. In high jewellery, more is always better and the Chryseis necklace, inspired by the butterfly species of the same name, is for luminaries and not for wall flowers. Imagine the fluttering creature landing around your neck before taking flight, leaving entrancing indentations of the black-and-white patterns of their wings. This is captured in diamond and onyx-speckled patterns, which contrast with almost translucent Chrysoprase beads, a particular variety of chalcedony prized by Alexander the Great with its characteristic green hue reminiscent of young leaves.
The platinum piece culminates in a 63.76-carat rubellite, considered to be the most coveted tourmaline stone in the world, of gorgeous red hues. Chryseis also incorporates three colours favoured by its artisans throughout Cartier’s illustrious history and that have become emblematic of the maison’s style—red, green and black. The overall effect is a vibrant, lyrical palette with naturalist undertones and a timeless adornment that exudes opulent elegance.
Panthere Chatoyante: Regal Adornment
Crafted with rose gold, the Panthere Chatoyante necklace is a colourful bouquet of striking rubellites, chrysoprases, emeralds and onyx. It is interspersed with exquisite diamond-studded details, which creates an exotic, almost floral arrangement for Cartier’s emblematic symbol that makes a stunning appearance as its nucleus. Featuring a remarkably detailed and delicate design, the powerful feline gazes magnetically at all who catch its emerald eyes, with touches of black lacquer, thus resulting in an opulent sparkle.
Vamana: A Sacred Symbol
Cartier’s relationship with Indian royalty in the early 20th century was transformative for the brand and the jewellery sphere. This also marked the beginning of a unique cultural exchange, blending the maison’s French design sensibilities with the extravagant tastes and gemstone treasures of Indian maharajas. Motifs from Indian culture and symbolism, such as elephants and peacocks, also deeply influenced Cartier’s designs, which were both luxurious and culturally respectful. This further led to the development of the ‘Tutti Frutti’ style, which used vibrant, carved gemstones—emeralds, rubies and sapphires—in floral and foliate motifs that evoked Indian aesthetics.
Through the Vamana necklace, a new interpretation is employed on the majestic giant, which blends figurative and abstract styles while paying homage to its rich history. A bold geometrical style permeates the piece, with facets and openwork details that give it a modern, almost architectural appearance, culminating in a ‘regal V’ at the centre. Triangle, lozenge and kite-shaped diamonds seamlessly merge to form the elephant’s ears, trunk and mystical emerald eyes, the latter of which act as its striking focal point.
Sibaya: Perfect Symmetry
In the glittering Sibaya necklace, the prehistoric reptile, which acts as its creative influence, is hard to surmise due to its abstract stylisation. Picture the undulations of a crocodile swimming between two ripples of water and the shimmer of the waters as the powerful creature slithers. Cartier displays its craft of transformability, as executed by its artisans, by focusing on a single detail of the ancient beast: its scales, which have been captured here by 45 sugarloaf emeralds. Unlike faceted cuts, sugarloaf cabochons have a smooth, polished surface without facets, which catches and reflects light softly, giving the gemstone a unique glow.
Each of the precious stones were painstakingly chosen, with careful attention being paid to their colour and their round shape, and then interspersed with diamonds. The contrast between the vivid green and the radiant diamonds creates a luxurious, timeless aesthetic, with its cascading pattern drawing the eye down to the prominent 7.96-carat emerald drop.
Each piece of Cartier’s Nature Sauvage is truly a testament to their enduring craftsmanship and creative vision, celebrating the power and allure of the fierce beauty of the natural world in a refined and extravagant form.
Cover image: Teo Yoo, internationally acclaimed South Korean actor, showcases creations with a dazzling harmony of colour.
