After more than four years, one of Los Angeles’s best restaurants has made its long-awaited comeback. Somni, from chef Aitor Zabala, has returned to the City of Angels after closing in the summer of 2020 due to the economic effects of the pandemic. The tasting-menu restaurant first opened in 2018, and within a year it had gained two Michelin stars and accolades the world over. Reopened as of November 26, Somni 2.0 retains some of the elements that made the restaurant so acclaimed in the first place, while introducing new features that aim to make it more relevant than ever.
Now slightly larger, Somni contains a 14-seat chef’s counter, where Zabala and his team are crafting a multi-course, RM RM2,197 tasting menu. Before making their way there, though, diners will enjoy canapes out on the patio, courtesy of L.A.’s year-round sunshine. When they sit down at the counter, they’ll dine on a menu inspired by the ingredients and artistry of Spain, plus the culture of L.A. Zabala interprets those influences in dishes such as parmesan feather, dashi with caviar, and aged txuleta. A dash of fun is added to plates named Cow and Her Milk and Sweet Little Things for dessert.
To accompany the meal, Somni offers two wine pairings and a non-alcoholic option as well. The Arrels pairing (the Catalan word means “roots”) showcases only California and Spanish wines, for RM999. The Califia pairing (named after a mythical queen who symbolised beauty and abundance in Spanish literature) places an emphasis on vintage and site-specific qualities, and encompasses California, Spanish, and international wines, for RM1,842.
As for the design, Zabala aims to highlight his Spanish heritage by working with a number of Spanish artists and artisans. The Bullhead artwork from the original restaurant returns, while everything from the tableware to the staff uniforms draws on Spanish influences. Even the floor tiles are inspired by the noted Spanish architect Gaudí. Plus, Zabala is working to make Somni one of the most sustainable restaurants, installing a biodigester that turns food waste into water—the first restaurant in L.A. to do so.
“In our kitchen, there’s no room for waste—whether it’s time, space, or food,” Zabala said in a statement. “The LFC-50 biodigester allows us to manage food scraps efficiently, reducing the risk of pests and ensuring that we maintain the highest standards of cleanliness and environmental responsibility.”
Less than a month since opening, and with most tables already booked up online, it seems fair to say that Los Angeles has been eagerly awaiting Somni’s second act.
Photography by Somni and WonhoFrank Lee
