Chef Makoto Saito Sam, the executive owner of Sushi Hibiki, is taking the year by storm as he continues building on his achievements. Fresh off being honoured as Malaysia’s Japanese Cuisine Goodwill Ambassador, Saito is charting a new course for Sushi Hibiki with the addition of chef Yoshiaki Hayami—a master of Kyoto-style kaiseki—whose craft adds another layer of excitement to the omakase experience.
Hayami’s first venture into the Malaysian dining scene began with his collaboration in Sushi Hibiki’s esteemed chef series, Echo In The Night Volume 26. Bringing with him 30 years of experience from some of the most prestigious establishments in Kyoto, Hayami has had a remarkable journey, from leading the acclaimed KIZAHASHI at The Thousand Kyoto to the three Michelin-starred Kyoto Kitcho. As a culinary explorer at heart, it only took a little persuasion from Saito for Hayami to take that bold leap into Malaysia.
In honour of his arrival, Joyo Ginjo 55, a saké from the Kyoto Prefecture, was served as an homage to the chef’s origins. Carrying more than 120 years of history, this saké was handmade using Iwai, a type of rice exclusively cultivated in Kyoto, which also translates to mean ‘celebration’—a fitting tribute for the occasion.
“Although I enjoy not being bound by convention and constantly evolving, my approach to Japanese cuisine is deeply rooted in the philosophy of five tastes, five colours, and five methods,” Hayami sais. Known as gomi, goshoku, and goho, this guiding principle is a fundamental tenet of kaiseki, ensuring a harmonious and multisensory dining experience.
The philosophy was best exemplified in the appetiser course, featuring a medley of spring ingredients: hotaru ika (firefly squid), tairagi (Japanese pen shell), panko-fried shirauo (ice fish), takenoko (bamboo shoot), and sansai (mountain vegetables), all set atop a silky egg yolk vinegar sauce and elegantly arranged in a glossy tairagi shell. Its vibrant palette of colours, contrasting textures, and varying flavours form a captivating seasonal tableau—one that was as much a feast for the eyes as it was for the palate.
Beyond kaiseki, Hayami also has extensive experience in tempura, having his craft refined at The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto’s one-Michelin-starred Tempura Mizuki. With Hayami at the helm, Sushi Hibiki now transforms into a tempura restaurant every Monday. A preview of this offering was showcased in the white asparagus tempura, sourced at its seasonal peak. This was a luxury served with simplicity, allowing its natural sweetness to shine while retaining its satisfying bite.
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The star of the show arrived as a deceptive whole lemon. But tucked between its slices lay Hayami’s speciality—fugu ishiyaki (stone-grilled pufferfish) marinated in shuto (tuna liver sauce). It was an explosion of umami, and a squeeze of the lemon only intensified its appeal. The surprises didn’t stop there. Encased at the base of the lemon was fugu nigogori, a savoury jelly made by simmering pufferfish skin, packed with collagen and flavour. “I pour my passion into perfecting a dish that only lasts for a moment, and I value each and every encounter,” Hayami said. Although ephemeral, it was a dish and an encounter that left an imprint etched in one’s memory forever.
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Photography by Law Soo Phye
