There are cities that dazzle and those that hum quietly with soul. Jodhpur, the fabled blue city of Rajasthan, somehow does both—glowing in indigo hues beneath the desert sun, while echoing with centuries-old rhythms that spill from its forts and courtyards. Each October, this ancient city transforms into a stage for one of the most stirring cultural gatherings in India, and nowhere does the moon shine brighter.

Stories, Music, and Traditions

High above the old city, Mehrangarh Fort stands like a mirage of red sandstone, its walls catching the morning light like burnished gold. Within the courtyards of this 15th-century citadel, Jodhpur RIFF unfolds each year under the patronage of HH Maharaja Gaj Singh II of Marwar-Jodhpur, with Sir Mick Jagger as its international patron.

Now in its 18th year, Jodhpur RIFF is a celebration of roots music—raw, timeless sounds that carry stories of entire communities. From the desert rhythms of Rajasthan’s Manganiyars and Langas to global jazz, flamenco, and Celtic forms, the festival becomes a dialogue between ancient traditions and contemporary expression.

More than 290 artists from across the world performed this year, including music from Bhutan, Switzerland, and Colombia. Dawns typically begin with ragas at Jaswant Thada, a cenotaph built out of intricately carved marble, while evening concerts take place at the fort’s Zenana Courtyard. The mood is otherworldly, with the festival designed to coincide with the period of the brightest full moon in north India.

The highlight of this season’s programme was Inayat, a spellbinding conversation between folk dance and Indian classical music. On this collaboration with SAZ Trio, third-generation Kathak dancer, Tarini Tripathi, says that a “casual dialogue evolved into an exploration into the traditional compositions of the Langa community”.

And for that reason, Jodhpur RIFF has been endorsed by UNESCO as a “Peoples’ Platform for Creativity and Sustainable Development”, for entire communities of musicians, passing on living traditions.

Like A Maharaja

At the foot of the fort, within the old walled city, lies RAAS Jodhpur, a masterpiece in sandstone and light. Once the 18th-century haveli (mansion) of a nobleman, the property has been reborn as a boutique hotel that proudly showcases its heritage.

Jodhpur brothers Nikhilendra and Dhananjaya Singh lovingly restored the historical mansion using traditional craftsmanship, pink sandstone, and hand-carved jaalis (a perforated stone or latticed screen) that filter desert light into a golden latticework. On the most rewarding feedback on RAAS Jodhpur that he has received from his guests, Nikhilendra says, “I’ve been told that, to wake up to that view in your bed, next to a loved one, is pretty special.”

The effect is breathtaking—step into RAAS Jodhpur’s courtyard and the Mehrangarh Fort rises before you, framed by the geometry of sandstone and sky. The Darikhana restaurant, once a communal space for villagers, is now one of the city’s most atmospheric dining terraces, whose menu celebrates local produce sourced within a 30km radius, which is a reflection of RAAS Jodhpur’s commitment to sustainability.

This boutique property boasts 40 keys. I stayed at the duplex suite and enjoyed unparalleled views of the fort, but one could choose the heritage rooms if you prefer to listen to the storied walls of a nobleman from the 18th century. The staff at RAAS are intuitive and remarkably warm, reflecting the best of Indian hospitality.

Wellspring of Life

Just steps from RAAS Jodhpur lies one of Jodhpur’s most photographed landmarks, Toorji ka Jhalra. Built in 1740, this 300ft stepwell was once a source of water and community for the desert city. Painstakingly restored by RAAS and the JDH Foundation, it now gleams anew, children diving into its depths, while travellers rest on its ledges and locals exchange gossip under the arched niches.

For the discerning Robb Report Malaysia traveller seeking an immersion into authentic Indian royalty, culture, and unrivalled hospitality, Jodhpur is an unmissable destination.

Getting there

Jodhpur is well connected by air, with flights from Kuala Lumpur via Hyderabad, Delhi, and Mumbai.

Getting around

The city’s old quarter is best explored on foot, as its lanes are narrow, opening suddenly to blue-washed homes. For ease, hire a local driver through your hotel to navigate the more chaotic bazaars, and reach outlying sites such as Umaid Bhawan Palace or Mandore Gardens.

Eating

Beyond Baradari and Darikhana at RAAS, explore rooftop cafes such as the Stepwell Cafe and Stepwell Hotel Rooftop. For local flavour, try Gypsy’s thalis or Laal Maas, a spicy Rajasthani lamb curry.

Jodhpur